DT125R ARCHIVE

Snap!! Doing my 01 dtr in the exact same colour scheme lol

This is where I am with the project, luckily most of the financial outlay is in the shotblasting and powdercoating, but still need stuff like swing arm spindle and bushes as I had to cut the old one out because the spindle had seized inside the bush, a magneto casing, and a sprocket and chain set. Most of the work remaining is a good cleaning in the parrafin bath, and then spraying, oh and replacing all the nuts and bolts on the bike with stainless ones.

-- Edited by NEV on Monday 18th of April 2011 08:56:07 PM

-- Edited by NEV on Monday 27th of May 2013 07:09:40 AM

Aye mate I do, how much plus pnp to Newton Abbot, Devon?

Got round to sorting out the carb today gave it a damn good cleaning and changed all the screws to 4mm allen screws came up a treat, was looking for the carb model couldnt find owt stamped but on cleaning it up, under some of the crap was written from what I can make out was 3MB00

                     T132

Anybody know anything about these Mikuni carbs? i.e jetting,and is this the standard one for a 92 model?

 

 

-- Edited by NEV on Wednesday 20th of April 2011 11:42:10 PM

-- Edited by NEV on Thursday 21st of April 2011 07:48:53 PM

-- Edited by NEV on Thursday 21st of April 2011 08:20:29 PM

-- Edited by NEV on Monday 27th of May 2013 07:10:56 AM

210 is a bit low, ideal way is to change them and keep testing to get the right colour brown.

mate, any chance you can write a guide on getting your carb off, how you cleaned it, that sorta thing... cause i wanna clean mine up. just got no idea what im doing... :/ any help would be much appreciated mate...

NEV wrote:

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Got round to sorting out the carb today gave it a damn good cleaning and changed all the screws to 4mm allen screws came up a treat, was looking for the carb model couldnt find owt stamped but on cleaning it up, under some of the crap was written from what I can make out was 3MB00

                     T132

Anybody know anything about these Mikuni carbs? i.e jetting,and is this the standard one for a 92 model?

---

 Page 78 in the haynes manual says the standard main jet of a 3MB00 Is infact 210..

Made a start on the tank today, a couple of hours with the grinderette, and wire brush cup, took all the paint off right back to the bare metal, didn't even need to sand it,

http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/2244/img0033qk.jpg

Then sprayed a couple of base coat primer, to protect the metal from rusting up and to see if theres any dinks in the tank, luckily theres only a couple of small ones, will do those tomorrow with p38, then rub down and spray gloss black

By nev72 at 2011-05-04

By nev72 at 2011-05-04

 

 

 

 

 

 

"mate, any chance you can write a guide on getting your carb off, how you cleaned it, that sorta thing... cause i wanna clean mine up. just got no idea what im doing... :/ any help would be much appreciated mate..."

For the benefit of BKRAY, and anybody else needing to clean their carbs down, heres how I went about cleaning mine.

Various stuff needed for cleaning carb

1) Taking the carb off is pretty straight forward, undo both jubilee clips on both ends intake and outlet, undo the 2 screws on where throttle cable attaches to the top of carb, carefully pull the slider and needle out, be extra careful so as not to damage the needle. After masking off the intakes and spigots on the carb, I use cotton buds for putting in the spigots and kitchen roll and duct tape for the intakes and outlet, so as not to get any dirt from the parafin bath.

2)The next step is the parafin bath, for cleaning all the road dirt and crud from off the carb I use an old bowl some wirebrushes, paintbrushes,toothbrushes, wire wool, an old spray bottle filled with parafin for washing down, and a couple of small screwdrivers for picking and scraping all the crud from the little crevices on the carb.

3) After allowing the carb to dry , the next step is to wirebrush it all down, this takes all the oxidisation from off the carb and makes it like new again. I use an electric drill with both large and small wirebrush wheel attachments, wire wool and a wire suede brush for getting into the little paces the wirebrush wheels can't get into.

4) By now your carb should have gone from this

To something like this

5) To protect the carb from road dirt, oil etc, and to stop it from oxidising again, I spray with ACF-50 wd-40 Is pretty much the same, but ACF-50 can be sprayed on a number of bits and bobs on the bike, both protecting from rust and brings up stuff like new, e.g handlebar switch gear, and engines.

Putting the nice clean and shiny barb back on is pretty much the reverse of taking it off, just be very careful with putting the needle and slider back into the carb, as damaging these will result in your bike not stating properly if you bend the needle.

 

Hope this lot helps those who have thought about cleaning their carb, but havent any idea on how to do it

 

 

 

 

 

           

-- Edited by NEV on Saturday 7th of May 2011 10:40:06 AM

-- Edited by NEV on Saturday 7th of May 2011 10:45:32 AM

-- Edited by NEV on Saturday 7th of May 2011 10:58:42 AM

Well dont mate this is coming on well and looking good

NEV wrote:

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Thought I'd put an update of my project, seeing as it's almost done, on the engine side, it's had a 2.4mm, rebore, using a TZR 2mm oversized Mitaki piston, (higher compression) Changed the reed petals to Hy-Tech carbon ones, does the same job and cheaper than Boyesons. Rejetted to 240 on the TM32 Mikuni.

The frame and swingarm powdercoated gloss black, Renthal twin wall handlebars, plus converters, new panels, except for resprayed white to black headlamp cowling, DEP exhaust cleaned up, DEP rear box cleaned, stubbied, re-packed. Seat recovered and profiled at the rear. New tank decals.

Wiring loom stripped, replaced most of the terminals, then re-wrapped. Brake calipers overhauled and sprayed, with new pistons, seals, EBC pads front and rear, wheels cleaned up and replaced bearings, and seals front and rear. Rear wheel bearings and seals ought to be with me Thursday, so I can bang rear wheel back on, just need to order Goodridge hoses to get it finished. Started her up couple of days ago, sounds chrisp and sweet as a nut, a small problem with chafed wires on the wiring loom coming from the magneto, at the grommet where it comes out of the casing, so have sourced and ordered another one should have it Monday. 

Anyroad, some pics of where I am at the minute with it. Should be fully done, and all put back together,  hopefully this time next week.

 

 

 

 

-- Edited by NEV on Saturday 3rd of September 2011 05:02:36 PM

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 nice work, and , how did you fit your tm32  mine has split 2 manifold so the standards back on atm, PICS??

-- Edited by the only way is YAMAHA DTR on Saturday 3rd of September 2011 11:17:57 PM

Cheers for the thumbs up lads, as for putting the carb back on to the air filter, it's a well tight fitting, but if you just smear a little of, either grease, soap liquid, or similar, on the inside of the inlet pipe, then get a hairdrier and warm it up, it becomes a bit more pliable, and you should then be able to slip it over the carb inlet, a tip that helped me was to leave off the jubilee clip until you've mated up the union, then open  the clip right up, take the screw out, and then fit over, bang the screw back in and tighten up. Hope this helps.

No problems with that side, easiest to fit out of the two. Tight but got it on, the carb came off that manifold, hadn't changed anything, so it went back on it again.

Cheers Seiki.

Started her up earlier, heres a vid

 

 

 

 

 

-- Edited by NEV on Monday 27th of May 2013 07:21:04 AM