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Post Info TOPIC: Clutch Plates


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Clutch Plates
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Ok before I start I have tryed looking through this section for the right topic ANDDDDDDDDDD read the haynes manual, unlike some do wink.gif but still to no joy I am scratching my head.........

I changed my clutch plates over, as they were very worn, the new ones have come, and now I am thinking this is the bit how to get them back in perfect, there is a damper ring too even looking at the manual am not sure what spot it goes in anyone else know please? do the plain plates also have to go on a certain way as they all have a little rounded bit on then,

Any way putting what I thought was right everything back on and tightened up, I used the gear lever on the left side and there was nothing there hardly and of course the clutch lever on handle bars is still free play, so this must tell me surely you you have to do something to the clutch cable? on the left hand side like loosen it or something before you pop the clutch back in?.........

PS alittle pic of my bike how it is right now lick.gif

 



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I watched my mate puzzle over this the other day, the manual gets really crap at tis point. He put everything in a certain way, counted the edges etc. I'll ask him what exactly needs to be done later mate

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Thankyou Seiki mate I need someone like you helping me on this after all you build yours from scratch, yeah the manual gets all confusing, I always read the manual first before I post anything on here, but this one is bugging me abit........Thanks Mate

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If i remember correctly there is:
6x Friction plates,
1x Friction plate with a damper ring
6x plain plates..

Here's the order they go in:
Friction plate,
Plain plate 12 o'clock,
Friction plate with damper ring,
Plain plate 2 o'clock,
Friction plate,
Plain plate 4 o'clock,
Friction plate,
Plain plate 6 o'clock,
Friction plate,
Plain plate 8 o'clock,
Friction plate,
Plain plate 10 o'clock,
Friction plate,

Some tips:

The friction plates can go in anyway around, so backwards, forwards, doesn't matter really just as long as you make sure the damper ring friction plate is the second friction plate you put on..

When i say o'clock i mean the little edge of the metal goes to that time, so 12 o'clock goes straight up, so i really hope you haven't been using a digital clock all your life ;)

Remember to lube the plates up before you put them on aswell..

The lumps in the plain plates are evened out so the centrifugal force is the same all around the clutch, this reduces noise on the clutch..

And that should be it really, any questions feel free to PM me, although i am on here almost daily even though it's been 2 months since i last owned a DTR :(

Oh just remembered when putting the pressure plate back on be sure to mark it up to the clutch centre.. Althought i'm sure you knew that already ;)



-- Edited by xGINCATx on Thursday 19th of May 2011 08:03:26 PM

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Gin mateeeeeeeeeeeeeeee yesssssssssssssss thankyou soooooooooo much you got it spot on I knew it was something like that thats mate I will get on it today smile.gif silly question but does it matter what you lube them up with? as in is grease ok to use?? thanks mate your an absolute star smile.gif

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Erm tbh i would just give them a quick dabbing with the fresh engine oil you are going to put in, baring in mind the DTR needs about 750ml if i remember correctly and you can only buy oil in something like 1Litre or more so you should have plenty

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Cheers Gin mate, put it all in but still got all the free play in left hand handle bar clutch lever and the gear lever by left foot still not having it, something seems to have pinged out somewhere or, not in right

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You set up the pushrod properly?
No matter how slack your cable is you should still be able to set it quite tight with just the pushrod alone

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Hello Mate this could be the problem the pushrod , as it has that black thing on it that spins around but I did line it up with that little thing on the case in the middle I am just not sure how much that black screw twisty bit thing on the push rod needs to go on

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I didn't quite follow that, basically you tighten it up until you can feel it start to pull the clutch out, then wind it back so it doesn't make the clutch drag (the bit that you've winded backcan be adjusted by the cables later)

When i took my clutch off for some unknown reason it just had one nut on the pushrod, and i could never seem to get it right because every time i would go out on it after a few miles i would slowly lose my clutch until i lost it alltogether, basically what was happening was the nut on the pushrod was unscrewing further and further down resulting in the lack of a clutch.

What i did to resolve the problem was put a locking nut on it so it couldn't slip back down and it was right ever since

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It seems like the push rod is the problem getting thar set right, but thankyou so much for your help Gin Mate smile.gif

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Yeah, no worries mate. I've had my side casing off too many times to remember because of the bloody pushrod, because when i took it off it only had the nut with the big base thing on the back if you know what i mean? I kept putting it back together and obviously because i thought it was only supposed to have that one nut on it wouldn't work!

And the worst thing about it is that the haynes says about 2 lines about setting it up which is actually quite $hit!! Lol

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Yes mate your right there, I always read the manual before posting but like you say doesnt say sod all about the push rod really its a case of how far that black thing on the push rod should be

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that ballbearing goes inbeetween them rods aswell i think ,cos thats where iv put it anyway for now .
but at first i thought it went behind the kickstart cogs in a little indent so if someone confirms it theres a bonus

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tripr wrote:

that ballbearing goes inbeetween them rods aswell i think ,cos thats where iv put it anyway for now .
but at first i thought it went behind the kickstart cogs in a little indent so if someone confirms it theres a bonus


Yeah that's where the ballbearing goes, didn't think i should mention it as PatMan was only changing the plates not actually taking all the clutch out smile



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Gin mate looks like I have found the problem, it seems when I took the push rod out with the plates and plate casing think its called with the springs, well the little ballbearing has rolled out somewhere and I have lost it, I have looked to no joy, cos I did tip the bike to the side a good few times an its rolled out somewhere, cos when I looked in the pushrod hole the ball isnt in there, so rang up Yammy they getting me out in all for a bargin price of 22p smile.gif

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22p? I could have gave you one for nothing!! Although it would cost more than 22p to post haha

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22p's ok aint it ,sorted ya clutch yet m8
just crashed my dangerous bike collectin my clutch from royal mails sorting office so im in agony an i think iv broken my thumb not good as im trying to change my clutch today too, then the engine. just put the clutch outer casing on an done it up but there seem alot of play in the outer shell
iv got it in this order you wouldnt happen to know if its right would you please
a washer
outer cluch case
locking washer
inner clutch basket
small washer that you bash over the end nut
plates in
front case on


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Can't remember off the top of my head but haynes says:
18: Steel Ball
17: Left hand pushrod
16: Dished washer (the thin one)
15: Thrust washer (the thick one)
14: Outer drum
13: Splined thrust washer
12: Clutch centre
11-9: Plates (as described above)
8: Tab washer (the one you bend over number 7)
7: Nut
6: Pushrod plate (looks like a nut with a massive washer stuck to the back of it)
5: Washer
4: Locknut
3: Pressure plate
2: Springs (5 of)
1: Bolts (5 of)

Thats about it really, if you have a general idea how you took it to bits you should be fine, just come on here to double check.
It's the plates that are an absolute nightmare if you don't know which way they go in lol
Oh and remember to put you're bike into gear beforehand if possible, or trying to undo the clutch nut (number 7) will be impossible as the clutch will just keep spinning and spinning lol

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Thanks for that m8 yeah its all runnin nice again too

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Got to go get my ball lol from yammy today, hopefully be all back in tomorrow smile.gif Hope your ok Tripr mate smile.gif and havent hurt yourself, and thankyou so much once again Gin for your help!!!!!

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Also is there anyway of starting the bike once the pushrod is in with springs and bolts on just incase I need to adjust the push rod??

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Don't think so mate, best bet is to get some minor tension in the clutch lever (slacken off both cables first obviously) put it all back together and adjust from there, remember to not over tighten you're clutch as it's very easily done, there should be some play in the lever, a few mm, check the haynes if you wanna be exact smile



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I am gonna start paying you for all this info Gin mate smile.gif

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Haha, i bloody wish, insurance is due on my road bike and i'm gonna have to borrow the money until i've got enough to pay it all back cry Hence my 'for sale' thread haha



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Yeah not good mate but you got to do what you got to do big shame cry.gif

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Still havent got it working grrrrrrr done everything it says on this forum as it says in the manual, BALL BEARING now in.............its the left hand side gear lever, its still floppy so havent got no gears somethings not right here of course, its like something on the left hand gear lever side needs adjusting

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hello m8 still struggling with it. there are two rods in the engine as the 1st rod wasnt mentioned above i assumed he never removed it the the list said ballbearing 1st then rod in but that ballbearing goes inbeetween them 2 rods in the center of the engine look at the rods and youl see i tiny worn groove in them both where the ballbearing originally sat
hope this helps m8

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Yep mate thats all done and in properly smile.gif still nothing

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Gutted worth a shot i did put the bearing in 1st an found it just boucin around in the base part of the clutch arm
Best bet is maybe the rod needs ajusting till you can see the clutch basket move in and out when you pull the lever you can view it all nice well the casing are off too


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