Im rebuilding my 2006 engine and have conflicting problems with the manual.
I need to speak to someone who has rebuilt one of these clutches/engines really.I will try and explain the best i can.
As the basket goes on the shaft it shows 2 washers,a conical washer and a thrust washer (shown as 10 and 11 in the DT service manual)I cant upload the manual page im on so please bear with me.I only have 1 washer.The basket gear sits in the right place on the gear it meshes with but there seems to be play when i pull and push the basket.
Also does the splined washer that goes inside the basket under the lock plate sit on the splines or is it splined so it slides over the shaft splines and sits behind them on the basket?
i did this not to long back an was worried like you ,,, i had a guy i know with mecanics an enginering experience to look it overan i do when its all together correctly there is a slight bit of play thats supposed to be there to stop you snapping your clutch wheel to pieces so dont worry about it m8
The f*cking ball bearing had come out and it was missing the conical washer.Should be ok now,but wont know until its fully rebuilt and running and im along way off that yet.
There is a marking down the left side where the clutch arm should be set to before perfecting it, On 99% of the DTR's i've done it's always been there after i've done tinkering with it anyways.. But then again i always checked regardless
It's on the left hand side of the engine where your clutch cable goes, if you look on the arm that your cable attaches to there is a little notch sticking out of it sort of a little point sticking out, you need to match that up to the bit sticking out of the casing at that side, it's hard to explain without pictures, and since I've long since sold my DTR I'm not that much help unfortunately.
If i remember correctly, you slacken the cable off at the handlebars, pull the arm to the marking on the casing then get someone else with a screwdriver to tighten your push rod nut which pushes your pressure plate out..
Not too tight or your clutch will slip as your riding, if it matches up on the left side then rebuild the clutch casing and adjust at the handlebars ensuring it's not too tight either, you want about 2-3mm of freeplay in the lever
Forgive me if i get anything slightly wrong, as i haven't worked on a DTR in well over 18 months lol
It's easy as chuff if you know what you're doing, hard as buggery if you don't haha No really, if you have a Haynes it should be very straight forward.. If not then it can be abit of a nuisance..
In terms of working on a bike how much knowledge you got? Writing up a n00b-proof quide would take a while..
iv had mine apart again yesterday an then again double checkin it was right. fiddled with the push rod a bit more ,,, An my bikes clutch is still slipping at full throttle ,, i even stripped all the clutch plates cleaned em soaked em in oil refitted same slipping at full throttle # i av put fresh oil in it does anybody elses slip with fresh motul 30/10
yeah that was my main aim getting that bit spot on m8. before tightening the springs hey thanks m8 im not sure if i did it before or after i did the springs up ,,, here we go again bike to bits day ,,, it better stay sunny
lol i did my best m8 its improved but it still doing it at top speed slippin a bit.
with those plates how do you mean offset .. here's wat i did anyway ,,, the little lip on the metal bit facing at 12oclock / 2 / 4 / 6 / 8 /10 oclock i think im a bit sheet two m8 lol,,, there was mine an next doors kids on my case tho well i was tryin to concentrate.
yeah thats how i did it mate,then adjusted the lever where the cables goes after tightening up the springs,oh and that little ball bearing inbetween the push rods,i take it you know about that little fecker.
How much freeplay do you have in your lever up top? I've rebuilt clutchs over and over mainly because my lever was too tight up top, it needs 2-3mm of freeplay or it will be too tight So check that before getting your tools out
Yeah the springs go on first, don't just tighten 1 up fully before the next.. You wanna do is sequentially (big word for me) (Oh and also check that the marking on the pressure plate matches where the marking on the outer clutch is) And then when they're all tight you want to do the pushrod and locking nut with the cables all slack (especially the adjuster down the left side) Holding the clutch bar thingy on the left side at the marking point, then tighten it until it feels a little bit tight (not overly tight or it will slip) you can put the locking nut on Then put it all back together and tighten it up at the handlebars until you have about 2-3mm of play
