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Post Info TOPIC: dtr doesnt want to start


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dtr doesnt want to start
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when i bought it it started after about 10 kicks and it died after about 2 minutes. i stripped the bike and rebuilt it, havent touched the engine except from cleaning the carb, new gearbox oil and 2 stroke oil.  ive got a spark and petrol is going through but it just doesnt want to start.

also when i push the flywheel it moves slightly and makes a knocking sound then when i pull it back it does the same,  im thinking its a bottom end problem and the top end looks like its recently been rebuilt, i can still see the gasket sealant theyve used.



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red 1990 dtr - http://dt125r.activeboard.com/t45695405/red-1990-dtr/



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oh yh and ive changed the stator and flywheel over to a 3mb, couldnt be that can it?

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Crank could be fcuked, which will eventually ruin your bearings, then top end.

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thats what i was thinking, if this 3bn flywheel and stator doesnt sort it, ill have to strip it and rebuilt it. needs a new left hand crankcase anyway

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red 1990 dtr - http://dt125r.activeboard.com/t45695405/red-1990-dtr/



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hi can you please tell me if swapping over to a 3bn makes any difference cheers n good luck.



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the bike should have a 3bn but managed to break the plate where the pulsar is and had a 3mb spare and didnt work so trying to find another 3bn now

yh i will let you know

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changed the stator back to an original one and it has a lovely spark and got the woodruff key fitted but it still just doesnt want to start.

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NEV


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Could be a leaking crank seal, take off the flywheel cover, and try spraying wd40 near the flywheel towards the crank, the revs should race higher, thats if you get it started mind, mine was a pig to start couple of weeks ago and needed choke to stay running, and that turned out to be the flywheel crank seal. As it was drawing air in, and making it run lean.



-- Edited by NEV on Thursday 24th of November 2011 09:37:34 PM

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i was reading about the seal going dry and failing when it hasnt been running for quite a while.

would it cause the bike to cut out at idle?



-- Edited by mr karnage on Thursday 24th of November 2011 10:44:09 PM

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NEV


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Aye, that was the problem I had, it wouldn't idle below 1800, without the choke being on, no matter how I tried to adjust the carb mixture and throttle screws, and after turning the choke off just make the revs drop right down then die.

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think ill be changing them then, if it was the left hand seal the trans oil would smell like petrol?



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just drained the tank and the petrol was bright yellow and took a while to light.

trip down to bp with my petty can

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found it!

its the kill switch that was stopping it from starting even when it was off, disconnected the black and white wire from the cdi and it started sparking properly

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