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Post Info TOPIC: powerband wont come on


DTR Senior Member

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powerband wont come on
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i know there are limitless post about these problems but i can never find a staight anser and most dts are slightly different so any advice would be much appreciated. this is my second dtr 2003 and unlike my first one this runs sweet as a nut but when come to open her up there is no powerband seems to have all its power in lower revs n non atall in high revs the ypvs is connected but turns a slight bit clockwise when turned on, thats all you hear from it please help 



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and iv taped up the reed switch n put it back in its original slot could that be still workin n how does ir work?


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ill try that now n post the outcome it aint going over 80kph atm disbelief



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turn the powerband switch on


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What colour is the one you have now? The red ones are the only ones you want for pure power!

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dtr200691 wrote:

and iv taped up the reed switch n put it back in its original slot could that be still workin n how does ir work?




Tape it up as far away from the orignal slot as you can

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DTR Legend

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Pretty sure you have to ground it off don't you?

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K6 DRZ 400sm



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I hav now taped it behind headlight No change wotsoeva stil wnt go over 80kph powervalve stil not screemin like it should. Is there a powervalve switch never heard of it b4??

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NEV


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Nathlaad wrote:

Pretty sure you have to ground it off don't you?


 Came across this for de-restricting using the reed switch wires
Removing Speedo Restriction

The speed is restricted by means of a reed switch which is mounted in the rear of the speedo. It tells the CDI when the bike reaches 60mph and stops the revs from increasing.
To remove the speedo restriction take off the headlamp cowl and pull out the spring clips holding the speedo in. Then unscrew the speedo cable and lift up the clock. You will see two things in the bottom of the clock casing. One is round and is the light bulb for the clock, the other is white and oblong. This is the reed switch and you carefully prise it out and tuck it to one side out of the clock. I suggest you put it in a bag and tuck it as far away as possible. Do not cut or disconnect

 

 

 



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Yes I have removed reed switch from speedo and taped it to back of headlight it also has ful dep exhaust ova than that its completely standerd and completely gutles in high revs to get my optimun acceleration I have to change at 7000rpm where it dus a little powervalve noice but nothing after that

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Wilksiee wrote:

turn the powerband switch on


where is this?

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He is just messing about mate lol



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NEV


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dtr200691 wrote:

i know there are limitless post about these problems but i can never find a staight anser and most dts are slightly different so any advice would be much appreciated. this is my second dtr 2003 and unlike my first one this runs sweet as a nut but when come to open her up there is no powerband seems to have all its power in lower revs n non atall in high revs the ypvs is connected but turns a slight bit clockwise when turned on, thats all you hear from it please help 


 From what I gather when you first turn on the ignition, there should be the sound of two quick zipp/whirrs coming from the servo, sounds like your powervalve is stuck in the closed position, might be an idea to check the cables, they can fray and eventually snap, also check the powervalve itself isn't sticking, take off both cables and see if it rotates freely.

Heres a step by step guide of how to set the powervalve and cables up properly. Hope this helps

http://www.dtr125.net/videohtml/ypvs/powervalve.htm

Read carefully regarding the way the cables cross over for your model btw

 



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Cheers for your help nev wil check that out when on pc tomoz n wil post the outcome. Could the powervalve itsself be restricted as its never been alterd from new it feels like it closes at high revs instead of opening??

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NEV


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Not sure of the crack when it comes to your model and how the servo is set up from new, mines a 92 model, and a manual set up type, and as I'm still running mine in, the lads who did the re-bore set it to be pinned half way, although have bought the servo and pulley and cables last week, so will be setting my servo up once I've put a few more miles on the engine.
Yours does sound as if it's restricted mind, as the opposite effect of how yours is, is to have it pinned fully open, and nowt going up the lower revs, but a big kick up the backside at around 7k revs.
Try setting it all up from scratch, as per instructions, including cleaning the powervalve, as it can get gummed up a bit, and should sort it for you.

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Yes it does feel like its stil resticted like a said theres no diference with the reedswitch in or out wil stick at 80kph n wont rev any higher in 5th or 6th. Wil get clued up about ypvs tomoz n have a tinker jus don.t wnt to bals it up as dont no what im doing

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just got 100kph downhill with very strong tailwind so it carnt be reedswitch can it???

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just read through that link quote; 'Now turn on the ignition, the powervalve should turn anti-clockwise about 80 degrees once and then back again. This means it is all working fine, it does this every time you turn on the ignition.'


mine turns clockwise and back is that my problem?

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DTR Legend

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Hmm that's strange mate, are your sprockets standard? Even i can get over that with VERY short gear ratios (acceleration setup) While you're at it, whip the snorkel off and do a plug chop after (to make sure you're not running rich), that will make it rev out a lot more.



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the lad i bought it of did say itd had a sprocket change so will compare them to my standard 1s i had bought for my last dt i sent back lol will post outcome. will also cut snorkel off whats a plug chop? the problem is its not reving out when it gets into higher revs its got no pull at al when i change up a gear i get a boost of power then at 7500 no power again can push it to nearly redline but waiting all day much faster to change at 7500rpm

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DTR Legend

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You don't need to cut the snorkel out just take off the seat and pull it off, it's a black gromet type thang! And just basically go to the bottom of a steep hill and pin the throttle all the way through the gears, until you get to the top of the hill. Ride home and check the colour of the sparkie.



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ok firsly what year is your bike and can you try and take a photo of the left side of your engine so i can see the pover valve side cover and the cables going to the motor buy the sounds of it the cables might be the wrong way around so its like haveing it peged shut when it should be open ristricting top end mabey i think befor 2000 the wires should be crossed and arfter 2000 they go straght

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The cables are straight on mine..

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NEV


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Pic 23. Screw the cables adjusters into the relevant guides in the pulley housing (1990 - 1997 dt125r cables go from servomotor guide 1 to pulley housing guide 1 and guide 2 to guide 2. 1997 onwards dt's go the opposite way, i.e guide 1 to guide 2 and guide 2 to guide 1) this is important! On 1990 -1997 dt125r the cables cross over between the servomotor and the pulley housing. On the newer dt125r they do not cross. Fit the pulley wheel over the diamond shaped end of the powervalve.

There ya go that should sort it

 

 



-- Edited by NEV on Friday 25th of November 2011 08:37:12 AM

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DTR Senior Member

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no the cables are not crossed n its a 2003 model its dark now n jus finished work will have a look at power valve early hours tomoz n post a few pics for more advice thanks for help lads much appreciated

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DTR Senior Member

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the 1st pic were the hole isent lined up was how it was when took cover of n 2nd is wer it went back inline when switched egnition on is that how it shud be??



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DTR Respected Member

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i had the same problem mate so i just pegged the powervalve open it seems that on mine when i reved it the powervlave closed instead of opening just peg it open alot easier mate

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how do you peg it? n dusent that make you need engine rebuilds alot?



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DTR Senior Member

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Try crossing the cables over mate. You might have an early servo on a later bike so the servo is turning the powervalve in the wrong direction. You'll just have to try a few things. Try adjust the cable tension first and getting the slot in the pulley to line up with hole in the back of the casing so in the closed position it's all line up, turn the ignition off and back on - it should wizz anti-clockwise then back again. If your goes the other way, take the cables out, swap them over and put it back together - adjust position and cable tension again.

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Ok cheers wil have a go at switching cables round 2mz n wil post outcome if that dusent work wil look into 'peging' is there any dt meets in near future I could turn up n maybe some1 wil have a gander coz dnt realy wana peg it if can help it

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