DT125R ARCHIVE

DT-R_bradders · Guru

RE: Harry's DT R - Lots of pictures

Harry · Guru

Defo get some they do protect the seals really well :)

It's was a weird pearlescent brad looked so different shades in different lighting and angles. Inside it looked like a nice electric blue but when it was outside it looked like this lol

Nathlaad · DTR Legend

Blue's for bishes

DT-R_bradders · Guru

yea not a good look that shade of blue lol

Nathlaad · DTR Legend

Blue Penis

DT-R_bradders · Guru

dont grip it so tight nath!

Harry · Guru

I approve.

Ralzy · Guru

ACF50. This stuff was made years n years ago mainly used on military equipment (planes etc) to protect them from the effects of salt air and general corrosion - according to the manufacturer's provided information.
ACF50 is without doubt the best I've ever used as im sure Nev would agree, although it can be troublesome to apply like NEV has said already, as it comes out of the aerosol in a foam form,and you then need to apply this by cloth or brush. But once it is applied that's it - leave it for over a year and your bike is protected. It does gather some dirt and road crap, but this all easily washes off when it's time to revive your pride and joy with a post winter wash.
If your on a budget you may wanna have a look at Scottoiler FS 365 theres a BIG BUT!!!....
It is water soluble, and if you ride through a heavy downpour then you'll have to reapply it every single time... which to me is a pain in the rear end
However, if that doesn't bother you then 365 is highly recommended... On the flip side, if you just wish to apply a corrosion protection agent, and ride through the winter

ACF50 is probably best suited, as this will only come off if you purposely wash your bike with detergent / shampoo.

-- Edited by Ralzy on Monday 7th of January 2013 02:26:00 AM

-- Edited by Ralzy on Monday 7th of January 2013 02:26:33 AM

-- Edited by Ralzy on Monday 7th of January 2013 02:29:25 AM

Harry · Guru

Pics.

Nightmare week of solving the wiring issue, long story short it now works don't ask how. I ended up cutting and re soldering a hell of lot of the wires on the bike. Also tidied up some connections on the loom.

New HT cap

Tried to clean up the mild steel spokes on the rear wheel with a wire wheel and polish. Wasn't majorly impressed though.

Before:

After:

Fitted the cyclone, wiring is sorted out and not a complete mess like this though.

Then just pictures of the build, cut down the rear panels + sorted the tail tidy a bit more

Rear brake needs sorting.. doesn't bite enough, exhaust joint leaks, managed to completely loose the rear brake switch and the spare doesn't work..

But fitted a new carb and runs like a dream biggrin

Nathlaad · DTR Legend

Woop Woop, tried the same with my spokes and it wasnt happening! Looks areet that now!

Harry · Guru

Aye I tried it first with rough sand paper / steel wool wasn't happening would have taken days. Definitely need a wire wheel / brush was done in 40 mins or so just can't stop it rusting over..

Cheers need to go for a blast very soon!

Nathlaad · DTR Legend

Yeah, im just gunna relace them with stainless tho! Yup not been bad weather this week either! sort sumit out again soonings

BigPhil · DTR Senior Member

looks mint. done some great work there mate.

NEV · Guru

Harry wrote:
Aye I tried it first with rough sand paper / steel wool wasn't happening would have taken days. Definitely need a wire wheel / brush was done in 40 mins or so just can't stop it rusting over..

Cheers need to go for a blast very soon!

Get some ACF-50 on the spokes, spray onto a cloth and wipe them.

slob · Guru

Looking great. Shame about losing the switch. I am dreading to think what I have lost in my nice and tidy garage. Where did you get those mirrors from, really like them, are they good for seeing behind you when you are out on the road lol.

DT-R_bradders · Guru

looking awesome harry. liking the way uve cut down the side panels bikes looking great m8

Harry · Guru

Ta lads hopefully this is the last frame rebuild. Yeah slob I literally have no idea, it's such a small part I know it will have fallen down the side somewhere :(

They were handle bar ones off ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-CAFE-RACER-HANDLEBARS-MOTORCYCLE-BAR-END-MIRRORS-X2-/320919167816?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4ab845e348
(Can get them in the UK but can't remember the exact listing I bought them from) - Just remove the inner bit that goes into the bar.

They are good on the end of the grips - but where I put them half the mirror is my body so only get a glimps if something is behind. Do more shoulder checks than normal as a result. So not as good as standard mirror placement but MUCH better than not having any at all only done it a few times and hated it always found myself looking straight behind it's nice to just have them there to throw a quick glance see if any car is behind even if you can't fully make out it's positioning.

Harry · Guru

NEV wrote:
Harry wrote:
Aye I tried it first with rough sand paper / steel wool wasn't happening would have taken days. Definitely need a wire wheel / brush was done in 40 mins or so just can't stop it rusting over..

Cheers need to go for a blast very soon!
Get some ACF-50 on the spokes, spray onto a cloth and wipe them.

Cheers will give it a gander, don't suppose it would work on a dep expanny...?

NEV · Guru

yup keeps mine nice, paint it on with an 1/2" brush, aerosol spray is wasteful, spray some in the aerosol top, or buy the pump type if you can, its on Ebay
Good for making switch gear like new too.

Harry · Guru

Awesome that sounds like what I was looking for, was just going to use some kind of wax if not

Also - any bright ideas how to remove the retarded petrol sticker from the tank? I could peel and get some meths / thinners on it but it's stuck on stupidly well don't want to to damage the paint

-- Edited by Harry on Monday 7th of January 2013 09:52:39 AM

toadymc · DTR Respected Member

Looks nice mate how does it run without the boost bottle

dread123 · Moderator

what headlight you using pal, any problems wiring it up- did you need subframe or can you remove it? cheers

GADGET · Guru

Harry wrote:
Awesome that sounds like what I was looking for, was just going to use some kind of wax if not

Also - any bright ideas how to remove the retarded petrol sticker from the tank? I could peel and get some meths / thinners on it but it's stuck on stupidly well don't want to to damage the paint

-- Edited by Harry on Monday 7th of January 2013 09:52:39 AM

warm the sticker up with a hair dryer (not when the tanks just been filled up) then get a bottle of sticky stuff remover to get rid of the goo left on the tank http://www.betterware.co.uk/sticky-stuff-remover-250ml-bottle.html

NEV · Guru

Harry wrote:
Also - any bright ideas how to remove the retarded petrol sticker from the tank? I could peel and get some meths / thinners on it but it's stuck on stupidly well don't want to to damage the paint

Usually I use carb cleaner to get rid of the sticky gummy residue left from stickers, but the other day my missus showed me a different way of doing it.......... hairspray, don't laugh now, just try it, you'll be surprised, I know I was.

NORFE · DTR Trusted Engine Builder

yeah hairspray works on marken pen to when your loving son draws on the cream leaher sofa with marker pen ha

Harry · Guru

I actually forgot to put the boost bottle on - tried to afterwards but couldn't fit it in without at least getting the hoses off possibly even moving the carb just couldn't be bothered. I've never had it on to compare with it and it runs perfect pulls like a train. Only thing is if I literally open the throttle fully from idle it bogs for a second, but if you just ride it normally and only open it up fully after 2.5k it's fine. No idea if this is anything to do with it I doubt it.

It's a polisport halo - took a long time to get it to sit right as the clocks push the top out loads but not at the bottom. I used the frame with a long bolt through the bottom with a rubber bit to keep it pressed at the bottom sits perfect now.

Ta good ideas will get ordering

toadymc · DTR Respected Member

Well harry that bogging or hesitation u speak of sounds to me like your a bit lean on your pilot circuit. Whats the air screw set at? Have you changed any of your jets as i see you have opened up the top of the air box

Calum122 · Guru

Did a nice job on those spokes.

IF you ever go for a rebuild of those wheels make sure you get stainless steel spokes. It'll look SPANKIN!

Harry · Guru

Possibly its only if I literally turn it fully open as quick as possible, any slower and it's fine. That was because something was up with my carb it was bogging at around 70 (if I kept the throttle open it was fine but if I closed it it wouldn't accelerate till I got back below 65). So I made a bodge fix by cutting it. Since then I've sealed it back up to standard size to see if it was letting too much air in but the initial bog is still there. With the new carb the 70+ bog has completely gone and the screw is probably about 4-5 full turns from being fully in played with it loads to get a nice idle but nothing changes it.

Weirdly calum the fronts are stainless but not the back, not sure what the logic with yam was there? Yeah definitely but my loal-ish places charges about £120 for a whole re spoke with stainless so might not happen for a long time!

Calum122 · Guru

Yeah. That's not a bad price. To be done properly it's quite a professional job.