well i had a pair of spare cases laying about as you do lol decided to take a dremel to them and widen the transfers to suit the head i'm doing. anyone had any experiance doing this? i'm wondering if the oil hole will still work as it should? it went from the edge of the port
to this...
any opions on if it will affect it or not? and does anyone know what sort of epxoy resin they use to change the shape of ports?
-- Edited by FunkeyMunkeyDavid on Saturday 19th of May 2012 06:25:22 AM
awesome,cheers for the link i found grinding stones skipped too much under presssure i used those little sanding drums in the end,so much easier and quicker
radius every edge -smooth and match to the cylinder
have a look at these i did on my cr it made it loads better for supermnoto road use was nice and smooth not as hard hitting as std form
cant find em now lol
but it makes a big difference in the power delivery
the term "blue printing" is the process of getting the engine to its ideal working performance by removing all mismatches in castings and rough castings marks and getting every thing in to proper spec
all engines are mass produces so are near enough put together with out final detailing
iv got about 30 in me box all shapes and sizes never had a problem with it leaving rounh tho got some fine 1s wich leave a good finish,any other bits i some times use them foam sanding blocks as they follow all the surface and work a treat
got 15 of those all different shapes and lenths and then big ones all dif shapes n lenths, its like a knife fru butter ha, small ones fit in a dremel aswell, big ones i have to use flexi on the drill in a vise
your a star norfe,cheers! didn't know they made them lol looks like i'll be having a go at blue printing next
ha u need to no every oem spec the engine was designed to mate not as simple as getting at it lol
i just do the rough stuff and knife edging lol
to complex all the 2 stroke physics lol had great results from all my own work so ill stick to what i no lol
have a good read of some tuning manuals b4 u hack in to it to get a basic knoledge of what ur doing as some people cause more damaga than mods lol been there done that and its expensive when u fook up
lol sound advice that...i like to read as many tuning books and blogs as i can,but when it gets to pulse waves an that my brain gets fried lol just tryin one thing at a time,little by little.....
got 15 of those all different shapes and lenths and then big ones all dif shapes n lenths, its like a knife fru butter ha, small ones fit in a dremel aswell, big ones i have to use flexi on the drill in a vise
got mine this morning and fook me! knife thru butter aint the word lol top tip that
i think i missed something, Why are you doing this ? is there a big project going on ? :o
i'm just having a play at the minute lol reading more and more on tuning theory and practice,and just trying to learn more about these engines... i already did this to a top end
that went back in my off road toy that i use as a test bed
i'm doing the crankcases to match a cylinder head i'm doing
its all just to see if i can get anymore power out of it (or if it goes bang/fudge/squelch) once its reliable i'll transfer all the work onto my project engine (when i get off me ars3 an do it lol ) http://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/28861-my-ol-toy-1990-dt-125-r/
-- Edited by FunkeyMunkeyDavid on Sunday 27th of May 2012 04:54:24 PM
to get more fuel in the combustion chamber you need to widen the port windows in the sleeve, if you make them higher or lower you will change the timing and it wont run or run crap
fun stuff tuning
looks to me like your making the crank case transfer port similar to the dt200r
i am doing the same thing tomorrow when i strip my spare engine down for the 200cc prodject
yeah removing the skirt of the barrel is a good mod, it made quite a difrence in the power on mine, loads more smoothness not as abrupt and a good spread of the power off the bottom
yeah removing the skirt of the barrel is a good mod, it made quite a difrence in the power on mine, loads more smoothness not as abrupt and a good spread of the power off the bottom
did u feel a change in it also after u fitted it
defo mates got a stock dt and mine whips it now... seems to rev a little easier and a little further. feels like it needs bigger transfers and exhaust now though if that makes sense? feels like its being held back... and the only way,i'm sort of copying dt 200/rd 350 tuned transfers and cases. i'm hoping to change the height of the ports then skim the head. with a bit of luck it wont oink like a big pig in knickers
making the ports higher will shift the powerband higher into the rev range whereas you can get the same boost in power through all of the rev range through widening them
im doing the same as you mate with a spare barrel i bought
ive been in two minds whether to cut those two little barrel skirts off, now i might aswell
yes mate all mick abbys are like it, if u lookin the redd housing with the barrel fitted they hang well down cramping the flow of intake chARGE, if u look in line theres a few to copy
and those carbide bits lol i can see where theyve tried running off haha
lol yeah it all needs smoothing out lol i get carried away tryin to take too much out at once reading thru the book at the mo,there's so much theory to it all trying to find measurements/specs for the ports on the sp,gotta be the way to go... just trying to figure out how i can do the exhaust boost ports? reckon thats a biatch lol
I dont get why removing parts or all of the skirts gives any more power ?, Does it have something to do with you making the ports from the engine itself bigger ?