I have just remembered that i did slacken the locknut and turned the centre to get the clutch actuating arm to align with the index mark. Mmmmm,, what have i missed here? definately tightened it back up.
-- Edited by zooankski on Tuesday 28th of August 2012 08:18:25 PM
i don't remember it being a lot but looks like the sides comming off whatever :(, very disheartening, feel like packing it in right now as i have been working al my spare time on this thing.
-- Edited by zooankski on Tuesday 28th of August 2012 08:39:18 PM
Had it running again today after i fitted the chain, sounds odd though. A fast tapping sound which can be heard on my video. The other thing is the clutch does not work? i can tighten it all up and pull the lever but it appears the plates are not seperating???
If the lock nut had come off, what would the syptoms be?
The video makes it sound terrible although it has picked up the sound very well.
Just how much did u have to adjust it to line up th marks???? I still think the bb has gone and someone's just adjusted it to compensate ,then u have corrected it and put it where it should be ?
No no don't take it off just yet just had a thought ,th arm wears down over time and yours is an early one,check these photos out these are not worn that much but gives u something to look at before u have to take th whole side off again ,you can see very little wear here but they get bad and round right off , hope this helps and it's something u could try strait away as it just pulls right out
Just how much did u have to adjust it to line up th marks???? I still think the bb has gone and someone's just adjusted it to compensate ,then u have corrected it and put it where it should be ?
+ 1 on that i had the same problem with my husky the throw out bearing on the clutch arm side had squared off and was half the size it should of been no matter how much i adjusted the cable it would not engage it just stalled everytime i put in gear i replaced the throw out bearings and it was fine it cost me £8.
After sorting out the clutch which required me taking the r/h cover off again! i spent a little time trying to trace the tapping noise. Had the exhaust off and had a look at power valve to see if that is the cause. Power valve does not appear to be a problem so i am suspecting i may be looking at piston slap? and be in need of a re bore to .25 oversize (it has a new original piston fitted at the moment). I disconnected the valve and manually rotated it to give even more clearance but the noise remained.
I did check the small and big end for play when i had the head off and they were fine.
I have added a link to the video and gave it a few revs to see what happens. I have a spare bottom end turning up tomorrow so just need to source a barrel and head for it so at least we have a spare! (if any of you guys have anything going spare then let me know, i will have it re bored too so i know i have perfect top ends)
Any other suggestions?
Other than that i cleaned out the tank which came out like new inside, fitted front brake caliper and new pads + foot pegs.
Sorry about the smoke!- thought it best to run 50:1 and auto pump for the first few runs at least! ;). It is just an annoying problem to have, especially as it starts first time, every time which is a nice change!
-- Edited by zooankski on Thursday 30th of August 2012 06:00:08 PM
-- Edited by zooankski on Thursday 30th of August 2012 06:01:40 PM
-- Edited by zooankski on Thursday 30th of August 2012 06:03:24 PM
Thanks lads. Just need to sort the bloody engine out. I replaced the small end bearing as there was some play but rattle is still apparent so i guess a rebore might be order of the day unless anyone has other ideas? I am also still having problems getting it started although once it is going, it will start first time, every time for the rest of the day.
No real work on the bike as i have been busy rebuilding the spare bottom end and pulling out the fitted engine due to the rattle it has been making! So far so good although it looks like i need to modify the PV because it is a bit too close for comfort with a 57mm piston.
To date the spare bottom end has had a crank rebuild, rebore to 57mm, complete set of new bearings (including crank bearings) and a good clean up.
I am a bit stuck with the reed block though. Both blocks (from other engine also) appear to have one reed stopper further out than the other side??? any ideas???
-- Edited by zooankski on Friday 12th of October 2012 10:32:04 PM
I forgot to mention, While starting to strip the original engine today i found this! looks like the missing thrust washer from on top of the tacho drive! I suspect i have found the source of my original rattle?????
I also appear to have a washer left over from the rebuild, I don't think it is from inside the engine as it looks a bit battered and corroded but god knows where it should live as i only had a box of bits to rebuild it with! Any ideas?
Well, i managed to get the new motor running yesterday with next to no effort! Let it warm up with constant small blips on the throttle and no idling and then shut it off to let it go cold before i was going to repeat. Unfortunately during the wait i noticed a small oil leak fron the rear corner of the clutch cover near the sight glass that i cannot stop by tightening the bolts so looks like the cover needs to come off agian for a bit of an inspection .
Old engine is just waiting on new crank seals, a circlip from the idle gear (one is bent) and i need to find a replacement thrust washer to sit on the tacho gear (any one got one?, as i can't find something suitable) then that can go back together.
Small update today. Sold the YZF so with a new found cash injection i have ordered a full set of new blue plastics and headlid assy . New engine fired up again today (now i have fixed the clutch cover oil leak) and sounds sweet so i am nearly there. Next problem is where to have the tank sprayed in the right shade of blue??? and some seat fabric before i get her MOT'd.
Old engine is also coming back together. Decided against a rebore for now as it looks fine and tapping was from the washer stuck in the clutch basket (i hope!). New stator fitted but not tested yet and i also appear to have a power valve cover missing
I now have the right paint! a quick rub down to smooth it off and a couple of coats, then i should be in business! Also noticed i put the left fork sock on upside down, bo##ocks :(
-- Edited by zooankski on Thursday 8th of November 2012 04:18:43 PM
Did a bit more today, started to spray the tank but colour is not right :( , try again next week. Done loads of wiring repairs and installation of Vapor speedo because original clocks would not sit inside the new front cowel.
very nice an fresh looking m8 iv been thinking about those clocks myself are they very hard to fit an would i need a dt specific set or are they pretty universal that i could snap up a 2nd hand unit.
I just got a kit for a water cooled conventional forks bike mate. They work a treat and because they also have a 12volt supply, they light up as soon as the front wheel moves and turn off automatically after 20 minutes of stopping. The other cool thing is the shift lights.You can program them for a specific RPM and the led lights up yellow.Then the red led will light when you go over a specific RPM. The RPM also displays as a moving bar across the top of the display. I wired it direct to the coil connection so it is accurate.