DT125R ARCHIVE

dread123 · Moderator

RE: new winter project

FunkeyMunkeyDavid · Guru

i think yambits do it in a length for cheap money? metre for 3 squid or something

dread123 · Moderator

ebayer even cheaper mate.. I.D -3mm i found according to Yambits :p

Polisport Halo headlamp ordered today...Barrel and piston -rebored. 1mm oversize TZR jap piston all prepped and ready to go on, after a little fettling of the ports- Gen Yamaha head gasket to seal the top, then the engine will be put back together and ready to go.

Was thinking to either mod the powervalve for clearance or just leave it wide open and disconnect the servo?? love the power delivery when fully open all the time..bt want the low end power around town etc.??? decisions to be made.

next thing to look at is wiring up indicators and this new headlamp...any good ideas for indicators except those pesky LED ones? looking for cheap ones really that will fit the mounts.

will get some more pics up asap

NEV · Guru

Black = earth/negative, black/ white = positive/live=dark green for left or dark brown for right indicators.

aftermarket indicators are generally yellow and black wires, same principle applied black = earth etc. yellow= live.

-- Edited by NEV on Thursday 17th of January 2013 12:01:03 AM

dread123 · Moderator

Nev or anyone really. Having problemswith trying to find indictor wiring for the rear? I have got 4 wires , 2 black and 2 black and white? According to manual should be green and brown with an earth like the front? Only other wires towards the rear are for tail tidy???
Can anyone help identify these wires please. Possible that someone has just added different wiring? Not sufe if I need to start butchering the wiring or what? Dont even know how to trace back and sort? ?Confused? Could do with some pics of the wiring loom at the rear if anyone has,
Thanks

dread123 · Moderator

well exhaust was in state, after trying to source replacements -managed to get these cracks/holes/splits all welded up and fixed. need to give a good rub down with paper now and get em sprayed in black to finish the tidy up. Next mission is then to sort the rear indicator wires and ensure they are correct. WIll disable them for now and get mot down with indicators in place and switch removed- then i can have play and fit them back properly :p

Then need to fit my Halo headlamp -and adjust correctly for fitment

Engine covers spray in vht-aluminum spray , also cylinder head and barrel done- also managed to do my spare barrel and head(with new piston ready and waiting incase i blow this one up) lol

Frame has been touched up where it had rubbed down to metal-no pics as yet but looks 10x better :p radiaitor and oil tank mounts also painted black and shiny.

Panels/radiator covers, all went through the dishwasher- without wifes knowledge hahaha- also the both barrels and heads did too- had to put on 2 cycles to get rid of oil smell :p

Could do with some back panel stickers being made up- the plain white ones? anyone know where i can try? might look at local vinyl company to size and do???depending on cost?

-- Edited by dread123 on Friday 18th of January 2013 11:52:12 AM

dread123 · Moderator

more pics

dread123 · Moderator

more pics

dread123 · Moderator

more

dread123 · Moderator

exhaust pics before welding done :p

dread123 · Moderator

Any tips to remove the thermostat unit screws please? Stiff as hell and afraid i will knacker the heads on them. Want to replace them with my hex bolts like rest of bike.
Besides that little pain. The engine has been reassembled. Genuine head gasket , new base gasket, powervalve ground down with plenty of clearance, ports cha mm fered and wet and dried a little more on ports for peace of mind, new powervalve seals, and head torqued down to rwquired level including barrel. Carb has been cleaned.exhaust and end can been cleaned and sprayed matt black with high temp bbq paint looks good.
Plenty of compression with new plug in....need to buy new motor oil for gearbox, decent 2 stroke oil, new air filter,new fork seals as 1 is leaking, fit my headlamp and possibly get indicators??? Not sure yet bout them.
Also considering purchasing new rear fender and yz style front fender too? May aswell ?
Oh and seat getting refurb custom style by local company.
Plenty to keep je busy over next few weeks when the weather should be warmer and brighter.

eG x LoGiKzZ · Guru

impact driver, if that doesnt work buy a Blue Point bolt extractor set, amazing bit of kit!

Calum122 · Guru

Hmm. I don't know if i'd want to be using an impact drive near the head which is made out of Ali...

eG x LoGiKzZ · Guru

there not completely aluminium, and if you use the right tool bit it should come out easily, amazing how having the correct screw driver gets most bolts/screws out easily

Calum122 · Guru

What part is ali then?

I was wondering why some had rust in them lol? I was like WTF?

eG x LoGiKzZ · Guru

the head is aluminium alloy i believe, the cylinders can get rusty because the liners are steel

slob · Guru

I used an impact driver on mines but I had the head sitting on thick rubber matting.

dread123 · Moderator

Bugger already got head and barrel assembled, dont want to take apart now. Will buy impact dtiver and hopefully should need to much power to shifts?

slob · Guru

Depends mate, mines were totally fecked they took some beating. If I was you I would take the head back off and get some rubber matting. I used tractor innertube. last thing you want to do is cause damage. Its easy done when you try and take shortcuts. I have learnt that many times the hard way lol.

dread123 · Moderator

You reckon head gasket be ok to fasten up after? It's not been run yet?

slob · Guru

I would imagine it would be ok if it was tourqued proparly. not 100% sure though.

dread123 · Moderator

Got mechanics at work to pull the bolts. Was 30 sec mjob forvthem..lol. next to get air filter ordered and oil for gearbox and 2 stroke tank., any recommendations for gearbox oil and 2 stroke?

DT200R MACCA · BANNED

run with these 2 and ul get 30k easy out the engine

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Power-1-Racing-4T-10W30-Synthetic-Motorcycle-Oil-22497176-1-Litre-/150977087015?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item2326ef8627

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-POWER1-RACING-replaces-TTS-2T-synthetic-2-Stroke-oil-aprilia-honda-125-/360572493780?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item53f3cb9fd4

use this 1 to run the engine in 500mile http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Act-Evo-2T-Mineral-Motorcycle-Engine-Oil-22427176-1-Litre-/160948515090?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item2579477112

dread123 · Moderator

Any reason for running the mineral oil? How much does oil tank hold for 2 stroke on the bike? Cheers.
Air filter ordered now along with rear reflector for number plate. And number plate screws to fasten to new tail tidy. Any recommendations for coolant?

DT200R MACCA · BANNED

only need 1L of 2t oil for 2t tank as for coolant use this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motul-Motocool-Expert-Motorcyle-Engine-Coolant-Fluid-1L-/370728472297?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item5651238ee9

Calum122 · Guru

If you've done a full engine rebuild or even a rebore it's vital to do the first lot of mileage on mineral grade oil.

Why you ask?

It wears out any imperfections made during the rebore.

dread123 · Moderator

Cheers. So when that's done do I just switch to synthetic oil then? No need to mess about with any else?

DT200R MACCA · BANNED

yea once uv hit the 500mile mark switch oil

dread123 · Moderator

shall do :p thanks for the tips..looking forward to putting back in frame and starting over next couple of weeks...need to taxckle this leaking fork seal next i think.not looking for ward to removing them!!!

slob · Guru

If you re built an engine it will be easy for ya