Going to be a silly question now...when replacing the oil seals in forks.....must I actually remove the forks from the bike? Meaning remove wheel etc? Peoplehave mentioned undoing the top nut ? Does this mean I am going to have to dismantle the forks? Did mention it was a stupid question lol....just studying the haynes manual and it states top nut only if being dismantled? also regarding the dust seals, csn you reuse the old ones? Gonna stick gaiters on after wards
if u want the forks off u can leave the yokes bolted on just remove the front caliper undo the bront brake line guides then losen the clamp bolts then the forks jus slide right out the yokes. remove front wheel first
new battery ordered, oils ordered, new fork seals ordered- gonna tackle the forks friday i think- was thinking to get get swingarm powdercoated in white,black or blue. only thing putting me off is replacing all bearings etc-as according to several posts on here that could work out to be very costly?
the swingarm has already been painted in black but looks rough- can i just tackle with drill and wire brush attachment to remove and perhaps spray silver etc to do it cheap?
would rather powercoat though? incase i do- has anyone got all bearing/parts numbers etc requird for the job please? would be great help?
here for all the rear arm parts dude, just replace the bits that are ****ed. urll prob notice that itll handle better and be a more comfy ride if u overhaul the swinger parts. i garantee that the parts in there atm are shagged. im doin reefs dtx atm and its a fairly l8 model 56 07 plate iirc and the parts in there wer ****ed. only one or 2 bits are ok to use again.
well not attempted the fork seal yet- although they are here.. just ordered new rear fender and front fender from that guy in portugal- trying to fit my polisport headlight at moment- being a pain in the ass. still debating to take off rear swingarm and get shotblasted,rather than powdercoated- that way wont have to change all bearings etc.
will get there slowly- hopefully sorted out my carb issues too :p
If your stuff in the swinger is in good nick just shotblast and paint. If not powdercoat but the cost will be around £200 + to buy all the stuff, and thats buying the bearings from a supplier not the yammy stealers but as said before it has to be all genuine cause thats your only option lol.
yeah cant justify £200 on swingarm to the boss lady!! she would hit the roof! £20 to shotblast the swingarm- just gotta remove lol..might tackle in the morning ? need to find something high enough to support frame so i can drop wheel etc.
right swingarm off- taken to be shot blasted back to bare metal along with wheel tensioners :p - pick em up in the morning - he even covering bearings etc for me.. Any ideas what to do after? do i keep it silver and just spray and lacquer or choose another colour? gonna order some shorter dogbones to jack the rear up slightly i think...anyone know where cheapest is?
next job on list today is to attempt to repair this leaking fork seal???? not looking forward to this
Supersteve did have loads made up. But i think he may have stopped. You can get some on ebay for an absolutr SKANK of a price. But it seems to be the only place that really sells it. I would have a look at foreign sites since the people in Portugal love that sort of stuff.
Personally id have the swing arm spray since otherwise it'll rust like a bitch!
Fork seal all done.was easy enough to do. Just a pain getting old seal out, otherwise would have took 20 mins or so..swingarm ready for collection in morning, need to then get zinc primer and take yime bringing back to silver and lacquer. Also managed to trial fit the halo headlight-seems good
Just a quick mention for others reading the thread & future readers the Yamaha parts catalogue with parts ordering codes can be found here for 96 models onwards
well swingarm back from blasting.. have put some etch primer on and sprayed silver and lacquered too..will up some pics shortly to show the difference :p well pleased...
wishing that i had stripped whole frame and powdercoated blue or white now..as wasnt that far off from being completely stripped :p oh well that can be my next winter project
refurbed swingarm -shot blasted, then etch primered, then 7-8 coats of silver enamel paint, then about 8-9 clear coats lacquer...looks pretty good i think?
pics of new rear fender and front fender from that guy in portugual...very quick for delivery- bout 5 days i think. seems like very good quality too :0
decided to clean the chain slider etc before putting back on and have found out the bike has got a 520 conversion on..chain,sprockets...any benefit to running over standard?
saved me buying a chain breaker as i just happened to spot the split link before purchasing breaker lol
anyone got a picture of how the and where the rear foot brake stop switch fastens onto please? cant for life figure out where it goes ??
didnt take pics of it before i took off either!!!
Also overflow pipe from radiator has been leaking black oil ??? whats that about..not given it a clean yet?? just noticed little pool around my sheeting and its coming from that?? confused? has the previous owner been filling oil in radiator? confused???
sorted the brake light issue :p just been thinking -the hose was with a new coolant bottle reservoir that i had-remember it looking rather dirty and oily..perhaps was residue from that...cant see nothing untoward in radiator???
iv never had domed nuts on mine m8y and never had any problems the post u read that engine had other problems aswell. providing ur head and cylninder are ok and u got a genuine head gasket itll be fine
bad times bout ur rs tho dude u know what caused the turbo to go? and what turbo u running m8y? and how much boost, any other mods to it?
-- Edited by DT-R_bradders on Sunday 10th of March 2013 12:34:31 PM
project on the back burner at moment- had a very costly repair to my focus..bloody turbo decided to collapse and cause all sorts of damage! left me with a £1400+ bill -was not impressed.
anyways- not ran the engine yet or filled with fluids- but noticed on someone elses post about the dome nuts that go on cylinder head....i have not fitted these nuts..i just thought that normal nuts would do???? damm am i now going to have to remove these nice shiny nuts and replace them with so called dome nuts??? could i not just pop them over the top of the other nuts as i have already torqued down the head? or will they have to come off?? thanks
cheers just that someone said- water coming from the threads??? wasnt sure if they were used to transfer coolant round etc?? that was my worry.
turbo went due to injector fault and carbon particles making way to sump filter, leaving the turbo starved of oil, then bearings gound down due to lack of oil, blocking other filters!! Had to replace with Garret New turbo and all ford original bits, new injectors.
going in for remap next month after new turbo settled in, and another oil/filter change in 500 miles!
ah man not good surly there was a warning that there was an injector problem either engine light on dash or notable change in the way the engine behaved? **** happens tho dude... power and fun isnt cheap lol
no lights etc, and engine pulled just as strong, although sometimes when sat in traffic you would smell fuel sometimes..not all the time! Even had diagnostics kit on and never showed up a fault...oh well all repaired now and i can concerntrate on bike again!
dying to get this engine started...need to fit my new air filter, fill coolant and fit hoses, fill engine oil and two stroke tank, then i think its good to start-:p