DT125R ARCHIVE

Boxing · Guru

RE: 1997 DT 125R Project

Calum122 · Guru

Never trevor. Right then. You'll need to hack saw a flat head in there. Heat it up. Use some rust treatment. Let it settle. Reheat it. Reapply the rust treatment let it settle. Reheat it and hammer ther fooker out.

Calum122 · Guru

Still fairly easy to put the spring on when its on the bike. Just easier when its not. You'll meed some long nose pliers.

Boxing · Guru

Well, its running now. Just got to bolt the seat on and plastics now. Running five litres premix (125ML of 2 stroke).

Pivot is fooked though. Going to take it to a mechanic tomorrow and get it re-threaded. Bit of luck he'll be able to do it. If not, new pivot time. :(

Calum122 · Guru

For a bodge mate you could just drill though the axle. Place a stainless steel bolt through it then attach a nyloc nut on it. Temps.

Ø like that. Ø

Boxing · Guru

Will see if the mechanic can re-thread it, if not, then I'll do that. Not got a drill here yet anyway.

ShaunyBoy · Guru

I don't think a new one was much more than 20 quid, so no major panic

Boxing · Guru

Well, the bloke said he couldn't do it because the thread is too big, and to take it to a engineer firm to get it done.

So just going to buy a new one.

Is there anyway to get this one on that doesn't require too much work so I can ride it?

Luke · Guru

Well update on the bike, I got it done way back in June. But forgot to update the thread, derp.

Anyway, I got the pivot bolt re-threaded for £40. And ordered a new pivot bolt for £50, which didn't even include the nut & washer another £15 secured them.

Here's how the bike was sitting:

Anyway its had topend problems ever since replacing it.

So now its in bits, got hold of my DTX setup I've wanted since owning it, will be collecting the parts tomorrow.

And I took it down some country lanes, was giving it hell and, well you all probably guessed it was coming sooner or later the topend decided it wanted to start rattling. Or the bottom end. Either way a rebuild is needed. So rebuild it is. Will be done by Norfe if he wants to do it. biggrin

scrimsmustang · DTR Mechanic

Im sure he will, its what he does.

Luke · Guru

Well got my SM setup parts. :D

Engine is out, now just got to save up for the rebuild.

Will be a month or two until I'm back on the road, well until the bike is complete to how I want it.

Bought the SM setup from someone on here, not sure if they want to be named or not, so will leave names out. :)

Luke · Guru

Just got back from Norfe's. The oil pump failed.

Bottom end the bearings were gone. So yeah, full rebuild time. And going to run premix when I get it back.

Luke · Guru

The DTR front pivot bolt seems to be too short for the DTX setup. cry So going to have to order a DTX one.

Luke · Guru

Got the engine back from Norfe. Need to put it in now. Going to wait until my rear disc & rear brake pads arrive though, along with my ASV clutch lever.

Should be back on the road in the next week or so. Boils down to being bothered to drag it out of the shed. Oh yeah, and need to touch the paint up here there and everywhere.

Calum122 · Guru

Does look wicked that engine mate. An easy 1000 miles now dude.

Be sure you bleed the oil pump before riding mate. Otherwise you are not going to be a happy chappy. If it were me i'd be tempted to run premix until the oil pump is confirmed working.

Also mate. For the first 300 miles AVOID FULLY SYNTHETIC. Mineral oils and semi synthetics will do. For the first 100 miles i'd reccomend mineral oils. Then move your way up to part synthetic for a whole tank. Then depending on the mileage covered maybe move up to fully or stick with part synthetic until the completion of the break in period.

Luke · Guru

Will run it in for about 300-400 miles, then will be riding it casually, but not absolutely canning it.

And running premix now, got rid of the oil pump. 40:1 ratio, 25ML per litre, 125ML per 5 litres. :D

And running on some moped low grade oil. Couldn't find any mineral oil, sadly. Only had new bearings and seals, shouldn't really require 1000 mile running-in period.

scrimsmustang · DTR Mechanic

A brand new engine from the factory only needs 500 miles running in, DT,s dont need fully synthetic oil not even semi synthetic any good quality mineral will be fine. Nurse that for 150/200 miles and it will be good to go.

Luke · Guru

I think Norfe said to take it easy for 100 miles, but to drop the gearbox oil after and switch it. And to avoid high load on the engine. I.e low RPMs in 5th.

I'll do about 100-150 then get bored.

Got to do three heat cycles before even riding it for the first time. Then I have to warm it up for 10 minutes before riding. :) Should be fun... Going to avoid riding with my mate, he brings out the inner demon in me with that right hand...

Calum122 · Guru

I've just stripped my dt's tip end down.

17'000 miles. Stolen and ragged. Bore is as good as new!

scrimsmustang · DTR Mechanic

Boxing wrote:

Got to do three heat cycles before even riding it for the first time.

Why ? Nah just dont rev it into the powerband and it will be fine.

Luke · Guru

Calum122 wrote:
I've just stripped my dt's tip end down.

17'000 miles. Stolen and ragged. Bore is as good as new!

As long as it had 2T in and plenty of it whilst they were giving it the beans, I doubt there would be any/much damage.

It's when they start running it without oil / running a lean premix with it when they wreck the topend.

Luke · Guru

Engine will be in tomorrow. Leaves me with one problem, the oil pump stuff is all gone, and the hole in the engine case where the oil pump is needs a plate to block it off.

Now, if I put Gasket sealer on it, will it suffice until a metal plate is made up? Used gasket sealer on a pit bike engine before, when it had an oil leak, worked a charm. So fingers crossed it might work here. :D

Luke · Guru

Thought I had something to cover the hole, but I didn't got a cover made up out of about 3MM steel. Put some instant gasket stuff around it, and screwed it in. Worked a charm.

Running it on scooter oil currently. "Scooter Expert" or some lark similar. £5-7 a bottle.

Turns out the YZF-R125 caliper is a near on fit for the DTX forks etc. Got a mechanic to make it fit bang on, now I just need some bolts. Took it to a Yamaha dealership straight after to fix my puncture and they were moaning "Oh, it's a MOT failure, where's your front brake?" they were just upset I didn't pay them £280 for a new caliper, pricks.

Done about 10-15 miles so far, with no front brake. Stopped riding it now, because apparently the po-po can confiscate it for no front brake...

Photos:

Three heat cycles at the bottom of the garden:

DTR chain guard doesn't fit with the DTX wheels. So off it went. Needs new tyres on front and back but they're currently still within the law. biggrin

Currently stripped (again) fixing the exhaust, needs a new rubber as its split and needs another O-ring on the exhaust port as it's leaking oil out because it isn't flush.

Powervalve leads need fitting too. Along with the new bolts for the front caliper, will get it all done on Monday.

Luke · Guru

Got an Acerbis tailtidy too, along with a SM front mudgaurd, need holes drilling on them all to fit. Will get that done on Monday too. :)

Calum122 · Guru

I was riding for a while without front brake. Nothing to sweat about. Rarely use the brake anyway.

Luke · Guru

Calum122 wrote:
I was riding for a while without front brake. Nothing to sweat about. Rarely use the brake anyway.

Nah, had too many close calls to even consider running around for 100 miles with no front brake.

Can wait two days anyway, can't be bothered with working on it right now anyway.

The front brake is the main brake on a bike for stopping, using the rear is like using the hand brake in a car for stopping. Anyone pulls out I'm done for, absolutely no chance of stopping or even shedding off that much speed.

Also not to mention my insurance being void without the front brake, the hoses aren't even there, so it'd be obvious I didn't have the brake in the first place.

Luke · Guru

All sorted now. Fixed front break, ran in for 100 miles now going to ride it and run it on Synthetic as before.

Right seat plastic fell off though, was wondering if any of you know where I could get one? Searched eBay came back empty handed, is "right side seat cowl" the correct name for it? (Colour doesn't really matter, but preferably white. If it comes to it, I'll just spray the new one white, still got a can of Fiat White left anyway.)

Just got to empty the transmission oil and refill it now. :)

-- Edited by Boxing on Tuesday 27th of August 2013 12:34:20 AM

BigPhil · DTR Senior Member

Is it just me that uses the rear brake majority of the time ?

Luke · Guru

BigPhil wrote:
Is it just me that uses the rear brake majority of the time ?

You must be reading the road ahead a lot. I usually use the rear 90% and use the front to stop the remaining 10%. smile

Usually boils down to where I start letting off / slowing down though. If I'm listening to music or daydreaming, I break 90% with the front and use the rear slightly.

All boils down to how I'm reading the road pretty much.

ToySoldier · DTR Legend

i used to use the back mainly and only use the front for endos haha but with my leg now i cant use the rear at all =[