Currently working on the front end atm so haven't got the yokes to hand. Might be easier once it's all back together.
Right Obviously when depressing the brake I am keeping the cylinder up right so that fluid drains into piston. But because I'm holding everything the cap is screwed on tightly.
I've replaced everything that can be replaced. This is using a different caliper than the one I want to be using.
So i've swapped over the master cylinder, the brake line and the fecking brake and it still won't bleed. There is literally nothing else to swap.
So I am either doing it completely wrong or I'm the most unluckiest guy in the world and have managed to buy all faulty parts....twice.
Although the one thing that annoyed me is that I did start doing this with my old DTRE master WHICH I KNEW WORKED! and yet it still wouldn't bleed.
Something tells me it's technique. Even though I've bled many brakes before.
But feck it. Any help (even the basics would be appreciated.
You paid £11 for that i use the brake fluid bottle and a tube lolz and i would fill the master up then put the bleed kit on and loosen the bleed nipple on the calliper and keep pumping the leaver and topping the fluid in the master up till the leaver feels more firm and taked more effort to pull in and then pull the leaver in and hold it in while you shut the bleed nipple and it should be fine thats how ive always bled my brakes
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i blew my dt up ... but i fixed it.... Then i crashed it.... but i didnt fix it right and 2 scouser's come in the middle of the night and left me with a working bike
is the no return valve fooked like its letting air back in ? if not theres air getting in somewhere
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i blew my dt up ... but i fixed it.... Then i crashed it.... but i didnt fix it right and 2 scouser's come in the middle of the night and left me with a working bike
