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Post Info TOPIC: TDR Rebuild 2008?


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TDR Rebuild 2008?
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Hello!

Firstly, I may not update too frequently as this is my second project at the moment and most work will be put off until my KTM is all nice and shiny! ;)

Anyway, saw an ad posted yesterday for a 2008 TDR with a seized engine for £470! But the best part was, it was just a couple miles down the road from me! :D

I thought regardless of the engine, the bike should sell for parts up to and beyond the amount I paid for it should worst come to worst.

The chap delivered it to me today so I thought I better get to it and see the damage!

(Just so you know, I was told a previous owner had let the bike run dry of oil.)

First and foremost, I have had engines seized in the past and know that if there isn't too much damage, the back wheel obviously shouldn't move when the bike is in gear. Well already there is a bigger problem here as the back wheel on this lump moves without a hesitation when in gear... So already it seems to me that just a top end is out of the question. Never split cases before so this should be an experience!

Here it is just after being delivered!

Rusty lump!

Carb

So far I have removed the head and cylinder. The gaskets were of course melted and pretty much every bolt and nut will need to be replaced as 90% of them are not safe to use again. They are either half made of rust now or have completely snapped in half. But anyway I managed to get the cylinder off and what did I find? IT LOOKS LIKE THE BEST CONDITION CYLINDER I HAVE EVER SEEN! No re-boring for me! :)

Dead head gasket

Nice black piston!

Ignore the dust

For some reason half of the head looks ALOT cleaner that the other half???

Basically when I pulled the cylinder off, the piston moved freely and the crank was turning with only a slight scratching sound when I moved the back wheel. It then decided to stop turning and now the back wheel moves freely in gear again.

Tomorrow I may pull out the engine/check the clutch because I suppose if the clutch was always engaged or disengaged, (I'm unsure of correct terminology here) then the back wheel would move without the crank spinning?

Anyway I thought that was enough for one day as it started to get dark and the garage I work in is very badly lit atm :(



-- Edited by OSmightymanOS on Tuesday 23rd of September 2014 08:24:08 PM

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Well you have fuel being injected into one half of the combustion area and ignited and expelled out the otherside. Hence why one side has more carbon than the other.

Mate bottom end rebuilds easy. Strip it down should be evident what's wrong. Parts are cheap and worth replacing all of the bearings in the crank cases. As well get the crank rebuilt £30 at Yamaha for me. Plus a decent 'Long' Rod from PJME. Paint and build a fresh motor and that will hold it's value I GUARANTEE! Keep the receipts and you'll get your money back

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The Leviathan Project



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Just a bit sceptical about splitting the cases without a proper tool :/



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Well I'm gonna be doing my first bottom end split soon too. Give it a go mate. Theres plenty of videos around of how to do it. take loads of photos and you'll get there.

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DTR Mechanic

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Seen that on ebay, would have snapped it up myself if it was not so far from me............... What a bargain. Have fun sorting it out don't bust it for parts. Fix it and sell it.

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DTR Mechanic

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AndyYam wrote:

Well I'm gonna be doing my first bottom end split soon too. Give it a go mate. Theres plenty of videos around of how to do it. take loads of photos and you'll get there.


Just get yourselfves a decent manual, take your time and you will have no probs. Once you do one you will wonder what all the fuss was................. 



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very easy to split the cases once first done..take your time and try and get hold of impact wrench...makes job sooo much easier! see my project thread :p

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Okay I didn't get a chance to investigate very much today, but I had a quick look and noticed that I could engage/disengage the clutch with my hand using the piece on top of the engine that the clutch cable goes into. I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to be even remotely movable with just my hand even with the cylinder off! So definitely some kind of clutch issue going on here...

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Well that's how the clutch is engaged and disengaged anyway. So how else does it happen.

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But it's not supposed to be loose enough to move with your hand is it?!



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Am I missing something... wasn't 2007 the last year?

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Yeah don't recall mine being too tight mate. Could move it, I know that.


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Yeah I had no idea before finding this one that they even went past 2000! That's why I titled this thread with a question mark at the end. It's an 08 plate so could have been registered late?



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Bargain... would love a tdr myself!! Cant wait to see it done.

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saw this and even with delivery was cheap.

quick turn around and good profit biggrin

was gutted to get an email back to say it had sold lol

have fun,she'll clean up nice i reckon bud



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DTR Mechanic

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bikepics-1207764-800.jpg
Victor wrote:

Am I missing something... wasn't 2007 the last year?


2002 was the last year for the TDR125 its probably an old stock import.  I had a brand new unregistered 99 DT that I registered as a new bike on a 08 plate. I got it from Castrol Oils with .3 of a mile on the clock minus its engine exhaust carb and cdi on ebay for 300 quid you do get them.

 



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UPDATE!

Managed to get the engine out today after fighting with more rusty bolts.

DT and KX in the background wink

However there is some good news and some bad news.

Good news is I managed to pull out the piston clip that my friend stupidly dropped down into the bottom end. I didn't realise until today that this was why the crank wasn't turning as he said he saw the clip hit the floor when he took it out... I would like to say no harm done besides the tiniest stratch on the crank itself but I think there is worse things to be worrying about than that.

Now before I say anymore, I may be being completely retarded, but I think my crank may be ****ed...


Not just one...

To eBay for a new one I guess... cry



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Alright mate,

explain to me what you think the problem is with the crank. looks good to me? Is it the blueing or the little notch in it?

Blueing is normal for the crank, it'll reach hot temperatures but it can take it. And this isn't what you'd call a race spec crank. A little notch here and there won't hurt, worst case scenario have it wet and dry'd down.

You're nearly there now, if it were me, I'd split the cases and replace all bearings and the con rod. The crank will be a specialist job, but £30 will rebuild it by Yamaha. So it's worth doing and then you can guarantee a solid motor.

Looking good though

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Actually yeah, have just seen on eBay most of them have what I thought were vital chips on them. Wondered because I'm pretty sure my KX and KTM didn't have them! I will be attempting to pull everything apart tonight in my bedroom so hopefully things won't get too messy!

Here's a vid of me turning the crank. You can just about hear the sound it makes but it also gives a clearer view of these massive chips.



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Yes, but don't compare the DTR/TDR engine to those of a KX or KTM lmao. Completely different breed of engine :D They're full blown competition engines where every gram counts. These are commuter engines where reliability favours performance.



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Soooooooooo I now need a new clutch basket... I know what you're all thinking and yes I did buy one of those amazing clutch holding tools but I stupidly decided to try taking it apart before it arrived. Live and learn.

Here is a the damage.


Also notice the tab washer is completely fudged, although it was like that when I opened it up.


And here is another potential problem.


Will I need a whole new left side crank case for that little hole!?



-- Edited by OSmightymanOS on Thursday 25th of September 2014 08:33:41 PM

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My dtr has exactly the same hole under the engine it's nothing to worry about.

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All the engines I've owned have had that hole. Even off-road bikes.

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That's a relief lol. I really am a newbie at this! Moving onto the clutch basket, does anyone happen to know if this will fit? I'm unsure if there is even more than one model! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280866677596?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The numbers on the top of the engine read 3BN03 Y - 1



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DTR Mechanic

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Yep that will fit, any will fit from a DT TDR or TZR 125 from 88 onward.

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DTR Mechanic

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Do you just need the basket, ive probably got a spare kicking about ile have a look tomorrow. DTMX will defo have one send him a pm.

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Well actually I may have bent the inner basket disk like thing trying to clamp it to the outer basket... I really made a mess of this. Won't be attempting it again without that magical tool that's for sure. I'm probably safest going for a whole new set like the link I mentioned.



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OSmightymanOS wrote:

Well actually I may have bent the inner basket disk like thing trying to clamp it to the outer basket... I really made a mess of this. Won't be attempting it again without that magical tool that's for sure. I'm probably safest going for a whole new set like the link I mentioned.


 Actually I was mistaken, the inner basket is fine, was just caught on something. I think all I will need is a clutch basket and probably a tab washer if I can get a hold of one.



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Ile take a look tomorrow, the washer will be pennys even if you need to order one from your local dealer.

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I'm having a bit of a hard time finding a Yamaha dealer that does crank rebuilding. None of the 5 closest dealers to me do it! Might have to post it, in which case, does anyone have recommendations?

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