DT125R ARCHIVE

2strokemx · Guru

RE: TDR Rebuild 2008?

scrimsmustang · DTR Mechanic

OSmightymanOS wrote:
I'm having a bit of a hard time finding a Yamaha dealer that does crank rebuilding. None of the 5 closest dealers to me do it! Might have to post it, in which case, does anyone have recommendations?

Granby motors

Calum122 · Guru

Yamaha Skellerns In Cheltenham do it.

To be honest, I'm sure any garage will do it. But I know the mechanic (Rob) in Skellerns and he is a TWO STROKE NUT! Absolutely loves them and is very passionate about his work at Skellerns. He was very excited to tell me he rebuilt my Crank within 1 thou tolerances. But I'd give them a ring and see if they're happy to post it back to you.

Phone:01242 230403

Throw my name in for good measure say Calum with the Custom built DTRE, Zeeltronic and TZR engine in. I'm in there every month and always got work for them to do. I'm sure they'll look after you.

As said, any garage will do it, but I know for a FACT these guys are very passionate and do it according to Yamaha Spec, which is nice. It was £33 last time I did it, I supplied the Rod and big end bearing. So maybe £40 with postage. Plus LONG rod from PJME. Could have it rebuilt for £100.

That's my advice

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

Well I am actually picking up the engine today ;) but won't be together until at least next week!

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

Just about managed to get more or less everything apart with only a couple of minor issues and four quick trips to the garage to borrow their air impact drill! biggrin
Firstly, this bolt will need replacing but seems to be the only one.

I'm assuming I'll have to order a set of them now? And no I did not do that myself, it was pretty much rounded when I opened it up!

Secondly, the thread for the above bolt is on the starter motor here, but as you can see it's dead...

Is it worth me just buying a new starter motor for this? Or will just a new bolt be okay as the other two bolts for the starter motor seem to hold it okay. I suppose with a bit of luck I might find a cheap starter motor with the bolts in!?

Finally, how am I supposed to get bearings like this out!?

Will I need to buy another special tool!?!?!?

Got lots of snaps but won't upload them all of course. wink

Bearings!

Two more awkward bearings!

Gears ahoy!

Went a bit mad with the tiny cable ties as I didn't have my big ones with me.

Crank!

The cable ties here are to ensure I put all the washers etc back in the right order.

And lastly, everything put snuggly away ready for another day.

2strokemx · Guru

Burn it all, giving me a headache, just buy a working engine lol

Calum122 · Guru

Nice mate. Yeah cable ties are a very good idea. I have an engine stripped that has been like that for months now. All cabled tied up to remind me how it should be rebuilt lmao!

Yeah with that starter motor bit mate, just drill the head clean off. That'll come off easily then when you do that.

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

Calum122 wrote:
Nice mate. Yeah cable ties are a very good idea. I have an engine stripped that has been like that for months now. All cabled tied up to remind me how it should be rebuilt lmao!

Yeah with that starter motor bit mate, just drill the head clean off. That'll come off easily then when you do that.

I've already got it off after trying to turn it into a flat head, then pounding it with and impact driver for ten minutes. Shall I look for a new starter motor though?

Calum122 · Guru

Ahh sorry, just saw that.

Yeah that's not good. To be fair mate, you could araldite that back together. But if you need one, TZR, DTR and TDR I believe are all the same. So don't go buying a really expensive one for your model when there are plenty of other models that do the same job. I'm sure Scrim will confirm this. I've got a 4DL and a 3BN and they're the same.

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

Okay I'll be on the lookout for a cheap one but tbh the two other bolts do a good enough job holding it in place, I will ofc stick it back with something when it all goes back together though! Any ideas on those awkward bearings?

-- Edited by OSmightymanOS on Saturday 27th of September 2014 08:06:45 PM

Calum122 · Guru

Okay, so the needle bearings for the clutch, wouldn't bother replacing unless they're broken. they take no load, do virtually no work affect the bike in a minimal way. I'd be very surprised if they are broken.

All the other bearings usually drop out once in the oven faced down. I use a socket and tap most of the bearings out. I've never replaced the ones I couldn't get to, my guess is you want a bearing puller. Either way, those bearings are cheap enough and easy to replace. The ones I didn't do, well to be honest, I replaced the gearbox bearings because I could but in actuality they probably won't ever need doing. They're soaked in oil and should wear. But a shop will pull them out for you for next to nothing.

To put bearings in, I placed all my bearings in the Freezer, and the crank cases in the oven. Went in easily with that method.

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

Ah alright then well I have all the bearings out that I could tap, the last 3 two of which are needle ones for the clutch can't be tapped out so I guess I'll just leave them in there. They seem fine to me. Here is a vid of when I first got the bike and tried the electric start.

It sounded as it does when there is a dead battery, but the battery was fine as all the lights were coming on no problem. I'm starting to think now that I might actually have a dead starter motor. I just tried giving it 12 volts from a console plug I had lying round and it gave a little spark but didn't spin at all.

Calum122 · Guru

You can get them rewound. But just get another used one. Common enough

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

I'm at the point where I probably should be buying some bits. Can I buy any DT parts like the main bearings and the conrod etc? I found cheap supposedly oem quality ones at Yambits but only for the DT.

Since Callum you've recommended that long conrod several times to me I guess I'll have to go with that as it's only £4 more expensive than the one on Yambits. But I can't find any replacement bearings that aren't the main ones! What about the ones that are in the middle of the cases!? I can't be reusing the old ones as they genuinely feel a bit notchy now I've given them a few wacks to get them out.

Also, is it best to get my cylinder measured at a garage so I can buy the correct size piston? In the past I have just gone with the oem one, or in the case of my KTM, I was told by a garage to just get a size B. But if this bike has been bored out I'll obviously need an oversized one and being that it has around 18k miles and the cylinder looks pretty decent, I'm guessing it has been.

Sorry for question after question but I don't want to be spending money on a part only to have to send it back when I find out it's the wrong one!

Calum122 · Guru

Yeah so the rod should come with both the big end bearing and small.

Go to poke and buy their main bearings. Then search on here for gearbox bearings. There is a thread with all the ones you'll need. Type that into simply bearings.co.uk and buy those from there. That will be 20 quid. All the seal etc get from pjme

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

Calum122 wrote:
Yeah so the rod should come with both the big end bearing and small.

Go to poke and buy their main bearings. Then search on here for gearbox bearings. There is a thread with all the ones you'll need. Type that into simply bearings.co.uk and buy those from there. That will be 20 quid. All the seal etc get from pjme

http://dt125r.activeboard.com/t53032945/gearbox-bearings/ If this is the thread you are talking about, I have tried to type the numbers into simply bearings but have had no results :/

Calum122 · Guru

Works for me mate???

simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p165067/KOYO+6304+Open+Deep+Groove+Ball+Bearing+20x52x15mm/product_info.html

simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p167520/KOYO+62042ZC3+Metal+Shielded+Deep+Groove+Ball+Bearing+20x47x14mm/product_info.html

simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p165565/KOYO+6302C3+Open+Deep+Groove+Ball+Bearing+15x42x13mm/product_info.html

simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p165534/KOYO+6203C3+Open+Deep+Groove+Ball+Bearing+17x40x12mm/product_info.html

simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p165533/KOYO+6202C3+Open+Deep+Groove+Ball+Bearing+15x35x11mm/product_info.html

Not sure why I'm doing it but it's all there mate. Just have to use the search function

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

Thanks! I tried typing in the numbers and when that didn't work I tried typing in the names but I guess my work computers just ****ed lol

scrimsmustang · DTR Mechanic

Heres the 2002 5AN parts book

http://www.megazip.ru/zapchasti-dlya-motocyklov/yamaha/tdr125-10396/tdr125-24703/5anc-757367

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

Started cleaning up the cases :)

Before!

Not finished yet but got most of the crap off!

Calum122 · Guru

Go to 'aboltfromtheblue' on ebay and get yourself some stainless steel bolts for the rebuild. Get it looking smart when it goes back together.

robpowers · DTR Newbie

Not a bad first try! was a pretty banged up bike to begin with ;)

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

Small update:

Nothing major just showing some bits that have come in the post :)

Second hand working starter motor £45 from DeeTeemx. Turns out my one, (on the right) didn't spin when connected to a 12v source so this was probably the only thing really wrong with the bike before I dismantled it all.

Second hand clutch basket £15 from DeeTeemx.

Gaskets, spark plug and gearbox bearings from eBay and 'SimplyBearings'. £78 total.

A few stainless bolts from 'abolt-fromtheblue' on eBay. £14.

Still yet to arrive is the engine paint, (£20) and bits from PJME mentioned below.
Conrod, main bearings, seals and clutch springs costing £130.

Still yet to order is the piston! (+ Any non engine parts that will need replacing.)

Calum122 · Guru

Make sure you bin that head gasket mate! IT WILL NOT WORK! Has to be genuine or Athena.

Also skim the head and barrel. Well worth doing whilstit is all apart. I wrote up a tutorial on how to do it.

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

Good news, Skellerns in Cheltenham have allowed me to send them my crank, conrod, cylinder and head! (Mentioned you of course Calum!) I was uncertain about what size / shape piston to get because, due to my bore being nikasil, the piston variations are measured in increments of 0.0x Which is a bit too accurate for my liking! Also according to them, some 4FU cylinders use flat top pistons whilst others use dome. So they have said they will supply me with the correct piston and let me know if any work needs to be carried out on the cylinder / head. Although apart from a good clean, I don't think any work will be needed.

I have finally got around to starting the painting!

Before cleaning with all parts removed. Water pump seal was a bitch to get out!!!

After cleaning / sanding with tissue at the ready!

Couple layers of primer.

But unfortunately no pictures of the finished product at the moment. I ordered graphite instead of silver so couldn't use that!!! (Added another £10 to total cost)

I will of course be replacing the screws and needed something to secure the water pump / oil pump bits on so just screwed them back in for the duration!

Calum122 · Guru

Looking good mate. Yeah I won't get anything out of it but at least you KNOW that it will be in very good hands there. They do all my work for my bikes (not that I use garages) but for things like cranks and rebores I've always gone there.

Be careful when reinserting the water pump seal back in mate, I've had problems in the past and consequently the bloody water got into the gearbox lmao! As a rule of thumb I haven't replaced them on my new engines, depsite buying them. If they need doing I'll do them, else I'll leave them alone.

I personally prefer the graphite look, it hides away more of the oil and soot and general grubbyness of the engine I find.

Looking forward to seeing the finished article :D

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

Yeah I did actually end up slightly scratching the walls that the water pump seal sits into. cry I'll use some gasket replacement sealant I have and just hope it works... But it kind of did need replacing. I only jabbed it with a flat head and one of the springs flew up and nearly got me in the eye!!!

In terms of the paint, I didn't really want to diverse too much from the stock colour as I don't want to end up trying to sell it and finding that no one wants a "rattlecan job" on an engine lol...

Calum122 · Guru

I rattled can both my engines, and you wouldn't tell. Don't be too harsh, take your time, small coats and you really won't know. Usually my rattlecan jobs are naff! Bt for some reason I can do engines haha!

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

Finished version of the clutch cover :)

Should I use some lacquer on it?

MIGHTYMAN · DTR Senior Member

Small update:

Skellerns checked out the parts I sent them today and have said the cylinder was in very good condition so I can use a standard piston supplied by them. They are also going to hopefully be supplying me with all the cylinder to crank case and head to cylinder bolts, nuts and washers. I gave them my frame number and they have said according to Yamaha it is a 2001 German import. Looking at around £80 for piston + rings.