cool,and yer its defiantly more of a torque kit which i like because i only use the bike for greenlaning but hopefully correcting these port timings will make it a bit more lively :) only 2 more paydays and the bike should be done lol hopefully have it running by beginning of next month
Bikes in bits at the moment so I quickly did a litlle drawing ,it's just one big loop so I can't see how it could be wrong ? I was worried maybe the pump wouldn't handle the extra water? But I've noticed a lot of people using twin rads? I'm not running a thermostate but I always give it a bit extra time to get to running temp ...it seems to be fine when I'm moving At a consistant 120 but as soon as I stop it raises 140+
On my standard dt 125 r I can hold my hand on the barrel after a long ride on this one it burns my hand after about 10 mins so it's deffiantly overheating :( don't really want to have to bodge the standard rad on
But my jetting was wrong head gasket turned out to be leaking slightly and exhaust was blowing a bit at the stub (was working out the kinks lol )...so I won't know till I put it all bk together
I just wanted a nice original one for day to day riding ,keeping the yz/dtr for the weekends I also have a 1992 in bits that I need to restore at some point :)
The first owner lost the keys and lost interest so he stored it then the guy I bought it off bought it of him and gave it a light restoration replacing all bolts etc with genuine parts ,got the mot certificates and service sheets with the mileage on up to the time he stored it ,it's only done just over 10k the only things not original was the pipe and side panel stickers but it came with the original pipe it's so so clean and genuine ,I got it from a old guy who has many 2 strokes lc 350s etc so I got no reason not to belive him ,well chuffed ....any who sending the 170 barrel off for a replate today so won't be long till that's back together ...watch this space lol!!
-- Edited by endurodt125 on Wednesday 25th of March 2015 11:12:37 AM
Bit longer than I expected :( oh and I put some pro tapers and a disc guard and tail tidy on the new one ,kinda wish I left it standard now Thoe so probably going to change it back lol
-- Edited by endurodt125 on Monday 30th of March 2015 03:12:11 PM
My advice. The handle bars on those standard are like cheese. Always bend. If it were me I'd leave them on. And then if you want the standard look after fit the old ones on.
Just my two pence.
Yeah replating is a ball but these things take time.
Yer might just leave it ,just don't want to start ducking about with it to much cz I don't want to devalue it the idea was to just leave it standard and just focus on the other one but I couldnt help myself aha
-- Edited by endurodt125 on Monday 30th of March 2015 06:00:28 PM
Got the 170 cylinder back langcourts done a brilliant job highly rate them ,I've started putting it together all I've got to do is get a torque wrench and check the squish ,hopefully just going to remove a base gasket to get it right if not I'll have to get it skimmed
-- Edited by Calum122 on Friday 17th of April 2015 08:55:42 AM
Measured the squish ,it was 2.4mm lmao way out ,the 2 base gaskets didn't squash down as much as I though they would so going to skim this plate down a tad
come to realise that the head gasket is too thick resulting in a massive squish clearence which is probably another reason why these athena kits are so ****e ,im probably going to have to run it with a positive deck height just to get it the clearence right, also The low surface area means that there is less area to absorb heat from combustion and this helps to keep the head temperature down which would explain why its getting so hot it will also help to stop detonation ,corr this builds been a learning curve haha
haha my old mans been building bikes for 40 odd years and he dont even have a clue what im on about lol ,i was thinking about it dude but i really want to just get it done and running it with a positive deck height seems like the easyiest option it will only be by a small amount ,if not ill have to get it oringed ,been doing some research and it seems quite common so im pretty positive ..im just going to see what ive got to play with then measure the squish again and just go from there