DT125R ARCHIVE

Ralzy · Guru

RE: guidance needed of you kind fellows

Dt Danny · Guru

aye i suspected it wasnt but it said genuine part on it ...

scrimsmustang · DTR Mechanic

Hes right use an original head gasket, we said that all along ring or go to your local Yamaha dealer and get them to order you this part number 3BN-11181-20-00

scrimsmustang · DTR Mechanic

Or 3MB-11181-00-00 if they cant get the early type anymore.

Dt Danny · Guru

lol it wasn't then, i got the gaskets same place i got the re bore done

Ralzy · Guru

out comes the codes scrim lol

Calum122 · Guru

Definitely no genuine. The genuine ones are black. You'll see the difference when you get one. Lol. At least you know why you HAVE to use genuine head on dts. Silly really.

Dt Danny · Guru

yeh well ill get and genuine one today and do you guys think that should solve my problem ?

Ralzy · Guru

It just ends up being double the job Danny 99% chance of the cheapo ones failing. Even the gen can fail at times but 99% don`t you can use cheapo everywhere else on engine just not the head its a learning process you aint the first and you wont be the last mate to of done this so make it a rule of thumb get a book & make notes of the info or make a folder and copy and paste the correct info provided the lads give you for future reference

eG x LoGiKzZ · Guru

it was leaking and blowing very badly, i suspeect it was just the dirt on the head creating a gap for it to leak, the gasket surfaces have to be spotless, use a stanley blade or credit card to remove the dirt easily

Ralzy · Guru

Danny0112 wrote:
yeh well ill get and genuine one today and do you guys think that should solve my problem ?

If it was the gasket that failed then your in with a good shout a gen gasket will solve that prob

Calum122 · Guru

Yeah. But skim the head and barrel mate. Best way to get rid of all the crap on there!

To do it get a sheet of glass

Sellotape really fine wet and dry paper to it make sure it is nice and tight.

Wet the paper

In circular motion grind the head and barrel along the paper

You'll know when it's done when its all nice a clean and shiny.

Should need more than 60 seconds each side. And that might be an over estimate.

Dt Danny · Guru

Thank you guys ill get on that asap

BigPhil · DTR Senior Member

Got a bad feeling my head gasket isn't genuine..

stillbroke · Guru

BigPhil wrote:
Got a bad feeling my head gasket isn't genuine..

what colour is it phil? all pattern gaskets come in white/grey bar athena which comes in black also the yammy genuine gasket is black .

BigPhil · DTR Senior Member

stillbroke wrote:
BigPhil wrote:
Got a bad feeling my head gasket isn't genuine..
what colour is it phil? all pattern gaskets come in white/grey bar athena which comes in black also the yammy genuine gasket is black .

yeah its white/grey i remember now. had it in there about 5-6 months now i geuss i should change it before it goes lol

slob · Guru

Is the Athena kit one same as the Genuine. It's black and rubbery. << no Nathlad not that kind!

Dt Danny · Guru

That cheep ****ty gasket cut my fingertips open :/

stillbroke · Guru

slob wrote:
Is the Athena kit one same as the Genuine. It's black and rubbery. << no Nathlad not that kind!

the athena gaskets are apparently made in the same factory as the genny ones ,ive had all the gaskets available and when checked against genny yam ones theres a slight difference as it has more flex

at the moment ive got the white one here alongside a genuine yamaha one and the athena one .

when you hold the up tab and shake them up and down the white one bends with the tab. the athena flexs quite a bit but the tab doesnt bend and the yamaha one flexs a little and doesnt bend either .

im sticking with the genuine as i bought the athena for comparison.i dont believe there made in the same factory and also dont think this would make a difference .

NEV · Guru

I'd whip out the 2 exhaust studs and see if your leaking from there, sometimes people over tighten up the studs and break through into the coolant system, I myself have one knocking about that this happened to, by a previous owner.

-- Edited by NEV on Saturday 9th of March 2013 03:45:59 PM

Dt Danny · Guru

**update**

Right guys ive had it with this bike i put a new gasket on bolted the head down right and filled her up with water and she leaked out the exhaust and as i was turning it by hand it locked up so i took the head off and i took the cylinder off and the crank was under water .... wtf how ?

Dt Danny · Guru

Nope there good i have no idea how its getting into the combustion chamber

stillbroke · Guru

not looking good :( suggest you take it to the engineers and let them measure everything with a micrometer no point keep chucking money at it as the naked eye cant see the damage .even better send it to stan stevens explain the issue and see what he comes up with .

Dt Danny · Guru

yeh im going to get a propper mechanic to fix it for me since im getting very annoyed

stillbroke · Guru

also you might be overlooking the base gasket ,if its leaking through into the cylinder that would be my bet but water would be evident either way im afraid that your gunna have to take the engine out again as now that water will start to rust the mains and the big end ,and you might have ****e from the rad in there.

1.take the engine out
2.whip the cylinder off
3.turn engine up side down and let it drain
4.turn the crank to aid the water being pumped out
5.turn the engine back the right way up get some wd 40 and spray it in the bottom end dont be afraid to use a whole can
6.make sure youve left it a good hour then turn it upside down again and let the wd40 drain out
7.put it upright again and fill the bottom end with petrol
8.turn it up side down again make sure you have a container to catch the fuel

now go order a genuine base gasket and cylinder gasket get the cylinder off to the engineers and get them to check everythings straight and that there are no cracks etc.

keep ya head up mate it will get fixed NO SHORTCUTS though also when you changed the gasket did you drain the system ? as thats another reason water could be lingering around

Dt Danny · Guru

yeh i drained it and yeh ill get it back on the road soon hopefully

slob · Guru

stillbroke wrote:
also you might be overlooking the base gasket ,if its leaking through into the cylinder that would be my bet but water would be evident either way im afraid that your gunna have to take the engine out again as now that water will start to rust the mains and the big end ,and you might have ****e from the rad in there.

1.take the engine out
2.whip the cylinder off
3.turn engine up side down and let it drain
4.turn the crank to aid the water being pumped out
5.turn the engine back the right way up get some wd 40 and spray it in the bottom end dont be afraid to use a whole can
6.make sure youve left it a good hour then turn it upside down again and let the wd40 drain out
7.put it upright again and fill the bottom end with petrol
8.turn it up side down again make sure you have a container to catch the fuel

now go order a genuine base gasket and cylinder gasket get the cylinder off to the engineers and get them to check everythings straight and that there are no cracks etc.

keep ya head up mate it will get fixed NO SHORTCUTS though also when you changed the gasket did you drain the system ? as thats another reason water could be lingering around

Good advice there to follow mate.

Dt Danny · Guru

yeh ive tryed a new gasket but this time put a little but of gasket sealent and it looks like its holding water ... we will find out tomorrow but on the downside the clutch return spring has slipped off and its a bitch to put back on

slob · Guru

Here's how it goes on.

47DD2241-269D-4BB6-88E7-00A0CF9A6D2D-3516-0000068282A09A54.jpg

Dt Danny · Guru

can you get a pic from the top where the spring sits on the clutch controll rod thing majig