also can your upholstererererer guy do one off colours in the seat material? im after somthing as close to the "special" yellow almost as whats in my sig ^
-- Edited by DT-R_bradders on Monday 13th of May 2013 11:57:38 PM
Ta lads, bit spesh this one. next is sorting out the TZR 4fl exhaust mounted on, then clean it and spray up, want to see how it looks with an underslung exhaust plus hopefully it'll give better power over putting a DEP on
ite kl cheers m8y. im after more the "hurricane yellow"/ "redish yellow ****tail" ill give him a shout cheers dude. btw like the nev special 2 tone forks!
How come you sprayed the swingarm? People advise against spraying the swingarm? Or is it all good to do? My brother sprayed his swingarm on his chink bike, and within a while it was all scratched up from stones etc.
Tell ya what Skintt, you haven't by any chance got a wiring diagram for a 93 ish 4fu TDR kicking about have you mate?
No mate I never had a wiring diagram for the TDR! My Dad had the headache of figuring out what wires were what to change over to the digital clocks! Sorry about that man! I thrawled the internet looking for a wiring diagram for the TDR before we installed the clock, but there doesn't appear to be anything about unforunately! Maybe one might have been uploaded somewhere recently! But what I noticed was it was very hard to get any paper work or information about the TDR anywhere! Any help I got was from this site!
Right then Bradders, I need to test your engineering skills mate.
So today I started making inroads in fitting this 38mm Keihin carb, made a template up of a 90 degree bend so as to take the carb & airfilter away from the rear shock, I reckon that with a 45mm I/D silicon 90 degree bend I'll be able to do it, but am going to need a spigot making for the reed block inlet manifold,
This drawing below is what I'm going to need knocking up, that's if you can do it Bradders?
It's a bit of a fag packet drawing, but I think all the measurements are there.
-- Edited by NEV on Saturday 18th of May 2013 04:07:09 PM
Ali please Nathan, fook me yer a star bud, Do you reckon you can knock that up then? Might also need a clamp for the frame to carb, depends how stiff Shauns elbow is.
No problem. Will take all of about 30 seconds to program in the CNC lathe. Thought about a metal elbo instead with two flanges? I could do that but would be in stainless. I would have to check to see if ive got some elbows in that id.
A metal one may be better for stiffness and stop the carb floating about, but wouldn't need flanges, as reed block end is an inside fit at 45mm o/d and the other end at the carb also needs to be 45mm o/d, with 30mm cut off Shauns elbow to join them both together, so you'd need an elbow 45mm o/d 37mm i/d, 30mm (10mm inserted into reed block rubber) from inside bend at one end with 20mm from inside bend to the end on other Something bit like this
if for what ever reason nath cant do it gimmie a shout nev n ill do one for ya. think alloy would be better to keep any heat down. plus it would slightly cool the air as it passes through? iv gotta make one for my carb aswell. was gonna make the whole lot from alloy. starting with the what would be rubber mount gonna machine a plate that goes on top of the reed block then the connecting pipe made of cut segments of alloy pipe at the right angles to create the bend. and tig it all together that way i can keep the id of the carb all the way into the cases so theres no down sizeing in id. the plate will be the easy part but cutting the pipe segments at the right angle will be a bit of a mission. iv got the latest version of autocad at home gotta learn how to use it and draw it all up ; )
plus a one piece alloy inlet mani wil keep it nice and cool. ill use a 20mm in length silicone pipe to connect the carb
I suppose the easiest way Bradders would be to lop off the inlet rubber flush with the reed block plate, and rotate it about 70 degrees clockwise then Araldite it all back together, but the rarity and prices of the 4dl inlet rubbers, means its got to be a spot on job, without any errors, plus it could really do with about 5 degrees elevation at the front to raise the carb a tad, would mean needing 2 inlet rubbers to get the rise correct, as you'd need to first cut it at a slight angle from the reed block plate, and then cut the second inlet rubber to suit that new turned angle at 70 ish degrees so that when put together you get the correct angle for the carb to sit at the side, and also to raise it slightly. I think the YEIS bottle would be ok sitting round the battery side, but if not I don't think it would be the end of the world if the spigot for it was capped off completely. The other thing I'm not to sure about is if fitting a piece between the carb and reed block inlet rubber, giving it more volume would affect the performance on the carb, as I would have thought the closer the carb is to the engine the better. Something I'll need to check up on.