not sure yet i could put one in no probs. what u reckon. is it really worth having one. do you think that the volume of the bottle will need adjusting dur to the bigger carb? u can get tho adjustable piston type ones for scooters that have been heavily tuned. think adrenaline pedstop do em
Aye am sure you could add one later Bradders, I know the 4dl YEIS bottle is different shape to the normal DTR one, but not sure if it's got a different volume due to it having a 32mm carb, compared to a 28mm one. Also have come across a 1 1/2" pipe elbow which gives you the I/D of around 37/38mm not sure what the o/d is on it mind, all you'd need to do is take out the thread somehow
Be nice if you could make the tube up please Nathan, need as many options as possible mate, it's all about trial and error when it comes to modding up a project, as a fair bit of stuff has never been done before.
like this a machined base plate without the rubber flange but instead have a pipe section welded on made of individual segments like in the header of the expansion pipe. all tig'd together and a short silicone pipe to connect the carb.
For simplicity and to get the engine fired up, if you could make the tube Nathan so I can then fit a silicon elbow to the carb, so that will be that problem is out of the way, then I can concentrate on getting the TZR exhaust to fit, as I reckon I've some chopping, welding and pipe bending to sort out. But when you come to make your alloy inlet Bradders could you also knock up an extra one, as not only will it look the jobby, it will be much better for purpose as it will be much more rigid. Something a bit like the picture below Bradders
The 5 degree cut back at the rear will raise up the front of the manifold so as to set the carb up a tad higher above the engine/clutch arm. The only worry I'd have if making up the lobster back from segments would be the flow wouldn't be as smooth, ideally that black 1 1/2 pipe elbow in alloy would be spot on, for £3 I might even get it and fab it all up in mild steel, just to see how it all looks and sits.
tjats what ithought aswell but before the segmemted bend gets weldedto the base i can smooth up the inside with small sanding flap wheels scotch brite and emry strips. then a gentle sand blast to finish it even polish the inside after aswell. therll be enough weld material on the outside to keep its strengh
NEV, I havnt got time this week to make up that part on the CNC so Ive done it on the manual lathe as it was quick and easy. Its made from acetal for now so you can test fit it etc. If it works let me know and ill knock it up in stainless. PM me your adress!
Got a bit done on it today, hoses are all jubilee clipped, loom is pretty much connected now so it's ready for firing up, rear shock and dog bones are now on. NathH, that piece you made for the reed block intake manifold is spot on mate, you've done a cracking job, managed to get a 90 degree silicon 40mm I/D elbow, cut it down to size, and now the carb sits nice and solid.
Plenty of clearance between the bend and the rear shock, had to put a jubilee clip in the middle of the bend to stop it crimping up, and allow a smooth flow to the reed block.
The other day someone was on about painting their rear shock spring, main problem is getting the freshly painted spring back on to the damper, I've managed to come up with a way to do it without scratching it all up, getting it back on You need a sash clamp, and some 2" tubing about 7"long, on one end of the tube make 4 notches so it's castellated, that way you can get inside with a small screwdriver and slide the retaining clip down until you reach the groove it sits in.